Is it worth it?
...Look at the specs, Super 6 had what, like 10HP and 10 ft/lbs over a 1bbl? They did it to compensate for all the smog crap that got instituted at that time. I would say not worth the going price:
Get a super six sized headpipe (2.25 instead of 1 5/8 of a 1bbl slant). Do the HEI upgrade on the ignition. Regrind your cam for $50 from Oregon Cams and get yourself a few degrees of duration and lift. OR ghetto rig a 1bbl intake: Get yourself a 2bbl carter/stromburg to 2 bbl Holley adapter for a nice base to attach any 2bbl to, drill an outline of the adapter into your 1bbl intake with a series of 1/8 X close holes so as to put the barrels parallel with the valve cover and the throttle lever on the side or toward the rear. Use a hammer to break the shape window out (really) Epoxy or weld (if using an aluminum intake) adapter onto intake and seal. get yourself a 2bbl carter off a 318 or a 2bbl Holley off anything else. Mount it up. Bend or use the 1bbl throttle bracket to attach cable to new carb. Kickdown can be cable operated: either a puller or a pusher setup. Puller, run a bike brake cable from the top of the carb throttle arm or any part that pulls when the throttle is actuated. Anchor sheath with some sort of bracket (you can use large brake line and put a pinch in the end to capture the brake cable so you can guide it in a rigid sheath) then route it around the back of the trans and hook it to the throttle pressure/kickdown arm. Usually you can just wire up full throttle up top and see where the cable ends up, then pull the kickdown lever back as far as it goes and mount the sheath it so its at full kickdown at full throttle. You can adjust it by pulling the sheath through its clamp usually mounted on the trans pan bolts. Like a shifter cable but coming from the rear. Pusher- Shimano (bike equipment maker) made a lightweight push/pull cable for a certain gearshift (Positron) that was a rigid cable in a sheath. IF you could find a push pull cable like that, you could put it in a small rigid brake line and bend it up so it literally pushes back on the kickdown lever just as a mechanical rod would. It would have to be supported so it doesnt flex any but you could literally bend it all over the place as long as it had sweeps as bends and ended up pointing straight back to the kickdown lever. Looks like a boat throttle cable would be good but a bit heavy, but $12 bucks cheap for a true pusher cable setup sitting right next to the throttle cable up top.
...Look at the specs, Super 6 had what, like 10HP and 10 ft/lbs over a 1bbl? They did it to compensate for all the smog crap that got instituted at that time. I would say not worth the going price:
Get a super six sized headpipe (2.25 instead of 1 5/8 of a 1bbl slant). Do the HEI upgrade on the ignition. Regrind your cam for $50 from Oregon Cams and get yourself a few degrees of duration and lift. OR ghetto rig a 1bbl intake: Get yourself a 2bbl carter/stromburg to 2 bbl Holley adapter for a nice base to attach any 2bbl to, drill an outline of the adapter into your 1bbl intake with a series of 1/8 X close holes so as to put the barrels parallel with the valve cover and the throttle lever on the side or toward the rear. Use a hammer to break the shape window out (really) Epoxy or weld (if using an aluminum intake) adapter onto intake and seal. get yourself a 2bbl carter off a 318 or a 2bbl Holley off anything else. Mount it up. Bend or use the 1bbl throttle bracket to attach cable to new carb. Kickdown can be cable operated: either a puller or a pusher setup. Puller, run a bike brake cable from the top of the carb throttle arm or any part that pulls when the throttle is actuated. Anchor sheath with some sort of bracket (you can use large brake line and put a pinch in the end to capture the brake cable so you can guide it in a rigid sheath) then route it around the back of the trans and hook it to the throttle pressure/kickdown arm. Usually you can just wire up full throttle up top and see where the cable ends up, then pull the kickdown lever back as far as it goes and mount the sheath it so its at full kickdown at full throttle. You can adjust it by pulling the sheath through its clamp usually mounted on the trans pan bolts. Like a shifter cable but coming from the rear. Pusher- Shimano (bike equipment maker) made a lightweight push/pull cable for a certain gearshift (Positron) that was a rigid cable in a sheath. IF you could find a push pull cable like that, you could put it in a small rigid brake line and bend it up so it literally pushes back on the kickdown lever just as a mechanical rod would. It would have to be supported so it doesnt flex any but you could literally bend it all over the place as long as it had sweeps as bends and ended up pointing straight back to the kickdown lever. Looks like a boat throttle cable would be good but a bit heavy, but $12 bucks cheap for a true pusher cable setup sitting right next to the throttle cable up top.
