distributer cap mods?

The reason i run .092 jets in the carburetor is because i live 4000 feet above sea level, so the stock jetting was a little rich, And i have tried talking to don about the possibility of running the vaccum advance off of ported vaccum and he freaks out about that, he is so set in his ways of tuning there is no talking about tuning if the vaccum advance is not on manifold vaccum.
I have to admit, when i first put my new intake manifold gasket on, and no i did not use the fel-pro permatorque gasket, i used the fel-pro gasket part number ms95392 wich is the stock replacement intake manifold gasket for the 5.9 magnum and the 5.2 magnum engines. I used permatex ultra black on the end seals, but one thing i forgot to do and i feel very stupid for not doing... is i forgot to re-torque the intake manifold bolts after it cooled off from running it. So, since i forgot to re-torque them could i have another vaccum leak at the manifold? because it is behaving the exact same way it did when i had my first vaccum leak at the intake, running lean at idle no matter what i do to the mixture screws, same old thing happened first time around when i had the vaccum leak at the intake.
I do not think i can blame this issue on the vaccum advance being ran off of manifold vaccum, and in fact what i was going to say is when i first fixed my vaccum leak the intake manifold and i set my initial timing to 15 degrees total timing at 33 degrees with another 10 degrees of timing added at idle from vaccum advance on manifold vaccum this engine ran so strong and so well, it would idle as smooth as butter and the plugs looked terrific and it ran very strong, So this engine runs well with vaccum advance hooked to manifold vaccum and it runs cooler at an idle on manifold vaccum, and i feel as if it has sharper throttle response with the vaccum advance on manifold vaccum. I have ran ported and manifold vaccum to the vaccum advance and i have to be honest, it runs better on manifold vaccum.
I think i have another vaccum leak at the intake because i didnt re-torque my dam intake bolts after running it, I got another fel-pro gasket for 20 bucks and i am going to try this one more time this weekend.
My plans are too, pull the intake and the old gasket off, scrape the old rtv off of the block, clean everything as well as i can, apply edelbrock gasgacinch to both sides of the intake manifold gasket and to the bottom of the intake (around the ports) and apply the gasgacinch to the heads (around the ports) I use studs when dropping the intake so i know that it is straight. This time around i think i might try the right stuff gasket maker this time around on the intake end seals instead of the permatex ultra black because the right stuff is said to be ready to run imidiatly after installation, and the ultra black takes 24 hours.
The symptoms of this miss fire i am having are the exact same as when i had a vaccum leak at the intake manifold, but sparying wd-40 around the intake did not reveal a leak, but i'm told it could be leaking under the intake. So i will try this one more time, and most importantly i will not forget to re-torque the bolts after running it for awhile and letting it cool down. How many ft lbs of torque should i apply to the intake manifold bolts? they are 2 inch long 5/16 course thread bolts. So i'm guessing 15 to 20 ft lbs of torque should be sufficient, correct?