OK, I am done, I hope PICTURES

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northeastmopar

northeastmopar

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Ok, I am just about done. Abody 72 Demon. Swap drum brakes for BBP disc brakes using 76 and up parts. Car had a OEM front sway bar so we mounted the calipers on the rear. I think what everyone is talking about regarding the bleeders is hopefully in the correct position. Without being tooooo offensive let me know if you see any issues I should address besides all the clutter in and around the work.
 

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ef8340 said:
your calipers are on the wrong side bleeder valve should be on top otherwise looks good
Click to expand...

Yup, just swap the calipers side for side - put the now driver-side caliper on the passenger-side and the bleeder valve will be on top. Bleeder must be on top or you'll never get all of the trapped air out.
 
Just flip the k frame over & install it upside down... you'll be fine! Why mess with all those nice newly painted parts? Lol! (j/k - don't really install it upside down)
 
Just an alternative suggestion... Once you swap the calipers from side to side you will likely have a problem with the length of the fluid lines. Some have used a slightly longer line that goes with a F-body or something but...
You could just set the calipers out of their mounts and position so the bleeder is at the top. Allow the fluid to gravity bleed until all air bubbles have escaped , close the bleeders and remount where they are.
 
RedFish said:
Just an alternative suggestion... Once you swap the calipers from side to side you will likely have a problem with the length of the fluid lines. Some have used a slightly longer line that goes with a F-body or something but...
You could just set the calipers out of their mounts and position so the bleeder is at the top. Allow the fluid to gravity bleed until all air bubbles have escaped , close the bleeders and remount where they are.
Click to expand...

I had another mopar geru tell me that if I ordered say 1980 dodge diplomat calipers rather than the 1976 Dart ones, that the bleed points actually look at the top but more importantly they hose connections actually look into a better angle with the connection brackets on the 72 Demon and then I should order the hoses for say an Aspen and I should get the best fit. Has anyone else tried this approach to getting things to look better at their respective connection points. Not a big deal to just order new calipers for a Diplomat and use these elsewhere?
 
Here are the pictures to show what I am talking about. The 1973-76 calipers for a Dart are these shown. Look at where the hose connections face toward when I swapped sides with them to install on the rear because of the sway bar? The hose connection is looking directly at the top ball joint socket on the spindle and is only about 2 inches from it. A hose would have to take a radical turn to come back toward the original 72 hose bracket on the frame rail? I was told I should be looking at say a 1965 Diplomat caliper which will place the hose location in a much better and safer route? And then I think I was told to then use Dodge Aspen hoses for a better fit on the length?
 

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Use a banjo connector like in this picture. Most of the times the banjo end of the brake hose has a 3 inch pipe on it and you can bend it just enough to work.
 

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Here a pic of the banjo connection on my car. Not a very good one but you get the idea.
 

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not saying your wrong,but my calibers are up front, not toward the rear.
 

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Bending the tube on the 73 correct hoses has been done but be warned, it will crack away from the square banjo block if bent there. Also bending it upward to relieve some of the hose stretch can cause it to rub inside a 14 inch wheel. Seen that too. Looked fine until the wheels went on.
I think a longer hose that doesn't have the metal tube is a better plan than buying and painting another pair of calipers.
 
RedFish is right. '76 up Volare/Aspen hoses work much better. Now all you have to do is get it out and get it greasy so it looks right.
 
You probably know this, but don't tighten the LCA stud until you get weight on the front end to put things in the mid point. Otherwise the bushings will get a pre-twist that could ruin them. Ditto for the UCA adjustment bolts. I also did my front end real purty in different colors. I'm not trying to match the factory paint splatters.
 
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