74 Dart w/ 340 6 pack

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And also has anyone out there seen this. It's a timeing cover with no fuel pump
slot??? If you have let me know what it is off...
its off a magnum engine.if you need a la version pm me 20 bucks
 
I finally got around to looking at the hood and it looks like the very front of the air cleaner is sticking above the hood line.
I think if you use a slimmer air filter it will fit. Here is a link to what others have done.

http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=80869
thanks,yeah all the ones I've seen,doing research,have stuck up a little in the front above the fender line.Even the charger I seen stuck up and had a hood support right over the breather but had no issue with clearance.
Thats some good info in the link you posted also.
 
And also has anyone out there seen this. It's a timeing cover with no fuel pump slot??? If you have let me know what it is off...
its off a magnum engine.if you need a la version pm me 20 bucks
Thanks, I'm glad to see someone is reading my posts!! I found one that worked on the 340. It was strange I bought the motor disassembled and the only parts that belonged to the motor were the block and the crank. The rods came out of a '72 340, the heads are T/A heads and the timing chain cover off a magnum engine. Go figure but I can't complain to much.


thanks,yeah all the ones I've seen,doing research,have stuck up a little in the front above the fender line.Even the charger I seen stuck up and had a hood support right over the breather but had no issue with clearance.Thats some good info in the link you posted also.
Thanks mopar410 after I found out that I had T/A heads I did a lot of research to see if I could fit it in the car and that was one of the many posts I came across on the subject of Six Packs.
 
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AAAGGHH!!! That's good lookin. I so wish mine was done. And the more I look at the hood the more I like it.

Nice Job! Now get it on a track and let er rip!
 
Ken, it's looking & sounding amazing. I really like what you did with shifter & gauges. Can you post a few more pics of that set up so I can collect ideas? Thanks man & great work.
 
Thanks Jeff,
Nice work you and bad440 have been doing on yours.
Hey I'm driving mine almost eveyday to work so if you want to pop over and grab a look at the gauges give me a call.
 
Well I ended up having to replace the shifter cable on the Hurst shifter as it got close to the header and melted. Funny it was not touching the header but the outside case just dripped away until I went to shift it into drive from reverse and the car just stayed in reverse even though I had the shifter in drive. I have now put heat wrap on it and it seems to be doing fine.
 
I took my car to the Alameda car show last weekend and saw Saetun at the show. Almost no Mopar to speak of so I was glad to be there. I did get a yellow top battery to replace the old one that was on its last leg. I also got a picture of the heat wrap on the starter (Black) and the transmission shifter cable (Sliver) that I had just repaired.
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I have already put 1000 miles on the car and it still needs some fine tuning but other than that it is a real barn burner for sure.
 
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Update: Well I have about 2500 miles on the rebuild and have had a few problems but as I have always said "The Dart is a ongoing project". The latest problem....I had filled up and was driving down the road when someone pulls up and says "I think you are leaking gas" I pull over and sure enough the front locking ring has move just enough to let a stream of gas come gushing out. 8 gallons on the ground later I got the tank dropped down enough to get the gas to stop and then the Fire Department and HazMat team got to clean up the mess. I was really glad it was only a loss of about $30.00 in gas instead of what it could have been.
 
Well the latest bug I'm driving around in Oakland on a Friday night and the car starts acting like it ran out of gas. I pull it over and hike it about a mile (all the while cursing myself for not putting in gas earlier) to get gas in my gas can. I get back put the gas in and a little in the carb turn it over and it starts right up. I drive it over to the station and it only takes 5 gals??? I get back in start it up and start off and it dies going up an onramp. I get out and take off the air filter, then I tried to give it gas and nothing comes out of the carbs, dry. Wait for 4 hours for AAA to show up with the right truck (after they send two wrong ones) and tow me home.

Next day I start trouble shooting thinking the carbs are clogged or fuel line or fuel pump and pulled off all of it only to find that they are all OK.....I start thinking about the eccentric so I look in the fuel pump hole as I bumped the motor and see that it is not spinning with the timing chain gear. BINGO and a few curse words knowing what comes next!!!

All day today I spent removing the front of the engine to get to the eccentric.

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Then came time to pull the HB bolt but no impact wrench so it just keeps rotating.....What to do???
Here is what I came up with. A bolt, flat washer, 2 feet of 3/16 chain wrapped round the sway bar.

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Got the HB off and the timing chain cover to see this........the eccentric spinning free and after taking off the cam bolt the reason why.
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Here is the inside of the timing chain cover. It was just a matter of time before this would have been very bad........

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It is about half way though the cover. I am not going back to the mechaical fuel pump and now I have to pick up an eletric Holly fuel pump and will be installing it in the next week.
 
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seeing tools on your car made me cringe, glad you got it fixed though

I always hate having to work on my car after its painted, gotta be so careful
 
The area between the rad support and the front is the perfect place for tools and I rattled can it black just for that reason. It's when I drop them by accident in the engine bay.......That's when I FREAK out
 
The area between the rad support and the front is the perfect place for tools and I rattled can it black just for that reason. It's when I drop them by accident in the engine bay.......That's when I FREAK out

i had a wrench fall down in between the bottom of the radiator and the radiator support. its been MIA for 3 months. I finally got it back yesterday
 
I've done that also. Now I have a piece of cardboard that fits there when I am working on the car so the tools don't fall down in that spot.
 
Jeez, what a crappy way to start the new year. Glad you were able to isolate the trouble.
 
Jeez, what a crappy way to start the new year. Glad you were able to isolate the trouble.

Thanks Jeff. Just glad it happened here and now before the eccentric went all the way though the timing chain cover.

But what do you think caused it? Loose bolt? Crappy key? :wack:

No, my F*&# up. When I reassembled it I put the flat washer on the inside and the cup washer on after. Torque down to 75lb the cup washer was tight on the eccentric just not tight enough. I talked with the person who builds these for a living and he said "It honestly does not look that bad. I would cut open the oil filter & inspect. Drain the engine oil and see if you can find the small piece of the key. You probably do not have to totally disassemble the engine based on what the photos show. See what you can find in the filter and oil pan. Use brake clean or a another thin solvent to flush out the oil pan." so that is what I am going to do this weekend. I just got my new timing chain cover, all of the gaskets, Holly fuel pump and all the hardware to put it in from Summit.
 
Sorry to hear this.Even the most experianced builder has a "doh" moment.I doubt that tiny piece flows out with the oil especially if it settles to the bottom but no harm in trying.You could drag a magnet along the pan towards the drain hole maybe that will catch it.
 
I doubt that tiny piece flows out with the oil especially if it settles to the bottom but no harm in trying.You could drag a magnet along the pan towards the drain hole maybe that will catch it.
I think I'm going to drop the oil pan and clean it out and then I can be sure to get it out.
 
I think I'm going to drop the oil pan and clean it out and then I can be sure to get it out.
Before you drop the pan try running one of those flexible magnet wands(you know the tool grabber tool)down thru the opening while the timimg cover is still off,maybe you can get it that way.I know trying to get the oil pan sealed back is a huge pain especially in the car.
 
Before you drop the pan try running one of those flexible magnet wands(you know the tool grabber tool)down thru the opening while the timimg cover is still off,maybe you can get it that way.I know trying to get the oil pan sealed back is a huge pain especially in the car.

Good idea I'll try that first. I think with the RMS alter-k-tion frame all I have to do to get the oil pan out is drop two bolts from the Rack and Pinion and the pan "should" drop out from there. We'll see.....
 
So I finally finished up with the fuel pump issue but I'll tell you what if I do a cam swap in the future, I will go back to the mechanical pump. The Holly fuel pump is so loud I can hear it over the motor in the car. I was told that Cater makes one that is a little quieter...

Oh Well Back To Having Fun!!!
 
Update: 3500 miles and going strong but I had another Friday night in Oakland again. This time the passenger side rear shock broke at the rod and eyelet weld. The rear end housing popped up so hard it hit the fuel pump, shoving it up mashing the positive wire into the trunk pan, and shorted out the fuel pump. After only 35 minutes this time, AAA showed up with the right truck and towed me home.

This last weekend I put in a new Cater fuel pump and rerouted my fuel lines.
I also installed new QA1 coilovers on the back and the ride is much better.


Some pictures and video I took today.
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Now Back To Having Fun!!



 
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