AlterKtion - True Pro-Touring Suspension

funkyflynz said
I was also wanting to run my car fairly low, ive decided to go with the RMS Alterkation. Ive talked to Bill Reily (RMS) about the options and what im doing is using the wilwood 2" drop spindles, Bill said this would be ok for a show car, but not a street car as the RMS k member would be far to low to the ground, since i want to drive my car on the street i will cut the cross bar on the K member and raise it 2", this will also do away with the need for the spacers bill uses on the end of his steering arms, i will need to raise the engine in the car (i have a Gen3 Hemi), not sure exatcly how much i will need to raise the motor yet, will likely depend on which sump i go for. Hopefully will find out in the next couple of months all going well.

Although this plan is still a million times simpler than a full chassis, be aware beforehand what all this will entail - if you raise the rack 2", you'll also have to raise the engine 2" to keep it off the floor, which you'll also have to raise the trans 2", the exhaust 2", the rear 2"...all this stuff barely clears the floor pans now, so it will all have to be channeled up into the floor. Well, actually just raising the whole tunnel will take care of most of it, but the exhaust will be tricky. Off the shelf headers are out of the question, but custom headers or manifolds could work, maybe coupled with dr gas flattened pipes to keep them off the ground. Keep in mind, our crossbar is the same depth as a factory k frame, and typically other things hang down lower, like transmission and exhaust. It's all inter-related, so it all has to move up or down together. If it was a show or track car you could get away with some things, but on the street you need to have at least 3 inches under the exhaust or you'll be polishing the asphalt - header collectors do not like bridge abutments, I'm sorry to report LOL That doesnt sound bad, but to have 3" of space under 4" collectors, under the floor, you're looking at a minimum of 8" from the ground to the floor pans. Modern cars and most customs have body work that extends down on the sides so the car looks lower but has lots of room underneath. Not so with a stock body classic, so measure lots to be sure you'll be able to drive it over railroad tracks :)

And John, yea I have those items separately. Attaching a pic. I make them up here, so I can do any combination - two tall and two short are a close copy to the factory geometry, or you can do all tall ones or all short ones, with or without the cam bolts included. Or if you just need the little cam bolt flange plates for a rust repair I can just give you those loose instead of welding them to the mounts. The street rodders always get 4 tall ones so they can trim to fit their needs, but our cars would use two of each or four short ones. Give a call or email though, as I dont have them listed on the store anywhere.