Electronic Ignition Conversion Kit from Jegs. Questions..

you people are incredible - thank you. wish i had some more experience in the wiring field.. but that's why I'm tinkering with it the way i am. Body work, no prob.. but wiring might as well be me reading Chinese; same effect.

That's easy. If your factory harness is in OK condition, you can just plug the new ballast in in place of your old one. Leave the factory wire hooked to the coil + terminal. Now all you need is to pick off power to go to the box. If you have trouble identifying which side of the ballast to hook to, UNPLUG the ballast, and turn the key to the "run" position, then see which wire which goes to the ballast has power.

That is the (blue) wire that in your new diagram goes off to the box.
Is this a /6 or v8?

Its a v8 - i'll have to do some research into whats under my hood.. i'll be an expert when this is all done..

Here's how I did my '66 Valiant. You only have to hook up 2 wires in the electronic ignition harness. 1 wire has a ring terminal already on it. This replaces the -(neg) wire that is hooked to the coil. I just taped the old wire off in the exiting engine harness. Go to NAPA and get some 1/4" spade terminal doublers. These are a flat metal connector with a female spade terminal on 1 side and 2 male spades on the other. They come in a box of 5 and you have to get the box to get 1. Swap the kit ballast for the one on your firewall one wire at a time. I unplugged a wire on the old ballast and moved it to the new one in my hand until they were all moved and then took the old one off the firewall and screwed the new ballast down in it's place. Run the blue wire from the electronic harness over to the ballast resistor and install a female 1/4" spade terminal on it. Unplug the bottom right wire (brown) from the ballast and replace it with one of the spade doublers. Then plug the 2 wires in your hand (brown and blue) to the terminals on the doubler and you are done. You will still need to swap in an electronic voltage regulator as mentioned above and do not freak out when the epoxy starts to melt out of the back of the control module after a month or so. The only purpose the epoxy serves is to keep idiots out of the ignition electronics. 7 years later mine is still going strong with no problems except the trail of melted epoxy running down the inner fender. I fail to see how hooking up a HEI could be any easier or more beneficial and I haven't started turning my MOPAR into a Blowtie one part at a time.

Very awesome thank you so much! I'll have this printed out and looking under my hood when theres sunlight again..

i used a new Mopar wiring harness and all salvage yard parts ....works great LOL and mega cheap

That part looks familiar! Any tips?? :happy1: