steering coupler replacement (how to)

-
solracmopar

solracmopar

Well-Known Member
Joined
Mar 24, 2010
Messages
192
Reaction score
5
Location
Orlando Florida
I have a 73 dart with PS. I'm trying to replace the steering coupler rubber boot and metal piece. Was wondering if anyone knew how to take the actual coupler off the shaft once its removed from the PS splines. Thanks in advance..

View attachment photo.jpg
 
There's a small pin up near the seal retainer that needs to be driven in, it's an 1/8" diameter (I think) and its on one of the flat sides of the coupler.
 
Thanks for that illustration Daliant! The small pin your talking about won't come out as easy as the roll pin. I'm guessing it needs more force to pop out?

Also, I was gonna buy the seal and cover from Steer and Gear but wasn't sure if you knew of another place?
 
MERIDIAN said:
Are you trying to stick to the factory setup? I switched to something like this and it works great!

http://www.wellerracing.com/Sweet-Mfg-Steering-U-Joint-34-Smooth-TO-34-36-Spline_p_2111.html
Click to expand...


x2, Worked great for me, Looks clean and no slop what so ever.

Mike

328pics002.jpg
 
Man I love the looks of that new style coupler. Biggest issue I have now is the rubber and stock coupler are too close to my Dougs headers. I have power steering so the box is a bit big. This new style coupler looks like it eliminates all that garbage. I'm going to go with that! Thanks!!
 
solracmopar said:
Man I love the looks of that new style coupler. Biggest issue I have now is the rubber and stock coupler are too close to my Dougs headers. I have power steering so the box is a bit big. This new style coupler looks like it eliminates all that garbage. I'm going to go with that! Thanks!!
Click to expand...

Wise choice. The bottle cap type crimp on the top of the original box coupling is a real pain to get right anyway.
 
Thanks again Meridian, Issue I'm having now is I can't find the small pin to knock out. Do you or anyone know if they had the small pin in 73?
 
Anybody know which of these (size/spline) I would use on a 69 Dart (pwr steering)? so I could order without having to take my column apart until I need to? Thanks...
 
The pin is inside the coupler, you need to disconnect the coupler from the steering box then slide off the coupler and inside with all the grease is the pin. knock the pin out, which isnt easy. use that hole for the bolt location on the new joint setup. Sorry if you did this but you will see it once taken apart, cant miss it.
Thanks
 
DA69RT GT said:
Anybody know which of these (size/spline) I would use on a 69 Dart (pwr steering)? so I could order without having to take my column apart until I need to? Thanks...
Click to expand...

this is the one I bought for my Dart with a power steering unit, I switched to a manual unit and its the same spline as well. Also I just checked my old power steering unit and its a 3/4 36 spline.


http://www.bryke.com/310-236/Steering+U+Joint.html
 
MERIDIAN said:
The pin is inside the coupler, you need to disconnect the coupler from the steering box then slide off the coupler and inside with all the grease is the pin. knock the pin out, which isnt easy. use that hole for the bolt location on the new joint setup. Sorry if you did this but you will see it once taken apart, cant miss it.
Thanks
Click to expand...

I had to stick my finger inside the coupler to find the pin. On the outside it was hidden by all the dirt and grease. Ended up using a 3/32" pin punch and she came right out. Called Bryke racing and ordered that 3/4 - 36 spline U joint. Guy on the phone suggested I weld the non-spline side to the shaft because there was no hole. I'm guessing you drilled a hole? Thanks again!!
 

Attachments

  • photo.jpg
    81.8 KB · Views: 2,121
  • photo copy.jpg
    84.3 KB · Views: 2,136
MERIDIAN said:
For those who like this idea I have found the place I bought mine at which was:
http://www.bryke.com/steering_accessories.html

They are cheaper then what I pointed out earlier (wellerracing was just for conversation purposes)...just check your shaft and spline count and you will never look back!
Click to expand...


ZOMG!!!

This is just what I was looking for. Thx for the heads up!
 
I just noticed this thread. I got my u-joint coupler from Flaming River. Nice piece, but it requires sawing off the shaft and drilling a cross hole.
8425659164_d389fdd9b3_b.jpg
 
Yes I drilled a hole to accept the coupler. I was going to weld mine but I wanted to be able to remove if needed.
 
anyone what size we would need for this application to a manual box?
 
Yes it should I switched to a manual and the spline was the same..but that was for mine. Always double check your application.
 
Smart move Meridian, I'm gonna drill a hole just in case I need to pull if off in the future. I almost went with Flaming River but their price was over $20 more than Bryke. By the looks of it this mod is so much cleaner than stock and I'll have tons more clearance around my headers. Win Win
 
Got this feedback from mcnoople from a related thread

(http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=221346)

and it opens a whole new discussion:

[FONT=&quot]
mcnoople said:
[/FONT]I don't think I would be comfortable with the u-joint style coupler posted. Without any method allowing for the coupler to slide up and down it looks like it would cause binding everytime the the u-joint rotated. I would like to see a company make a coupler similar to what modern cars use for their steering intermediate shafts. Here is a link to a picture of what I mean.

And for those that have problems with factory style coupler seals, there was a factory designed bail clamp that was introduced that would clamp the coupler seal down tight and prevent it from coming off.

http://www.google.com/imgres?imgurl...UHUZi_OOXkygGBw4DADw&ved=0CDsQ9QEwAw&dur=8861
Click to expand...

Would appreciate comments and/or opinions.

______________________________________________________________
 
I suppose anything can happen but not sure on the binding issue, these joints are nothing new been around for years, so speaking from first hand use I have had mine for many years with no issues.
 
Yeah I highly doubt the binding issue. The people at Bryke make those couplers specifically for their late model dirt track cars which probably see a whole lot more steering action than a street car ever would. Hence is why they weld their couplers to the shafts.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top