Another 318 build, and questions. (LONG)

so after discovering a nasty crack in my current 318's block, opportunity showed its face to build up an engine, why? because i can, and I want it done my way. however im trying to keep cost on the down low as much as possible without cutting corners. ive never truly built my own motor before for myself, (Ive only done diesels, DT466's, 7.3's, 671 and series 60 detroits) so naturally i have a few questions and inquiries. please critique my plan and pointers are muchly appreciated.

Ive acquired an assembled FRESH, never fired .030 over 77 vintage 318 block with .010 under cast crank, factory rods, and aftermarket aluminum pistons of unknown make. it was for a hotrod project and the guy went chevy instead, his loss. The price was right and i couldnt pass it up. i will disassemble the short block and have everything checked, since i dont trust other peoples work without knowing whats been done. so first off, have the block squared up, and have the mains checked for straightness, line bore if necessary. use the existing bearings granted everything checks out ok after plastigage-ing. I just put a new balancer on the existing engine 7 months ago, its a factory replacement unit from dorman. Ill be running it as well.

I will be running the 87 vintage 360 heads 1.88 intake 1.60 exh currently on my cracked mill. ill get the valves re-faced, seats reground, and guides checked. along with a home done mild port job via the sticky thread in the smallblock tech forum. so as for pistons, i was leaning towards Keith Black KB399-30's, 1.81 inch compression height, +6cc dome to keep the compression from the dumps (shooting for 9.5:1) and avoid extreme block/head machining. Moly rings, with .0065 top ring end gap. now these are hypereutectic pistons, i will NEVER be running the "go-juice" in this thing. im after a snorty, yet streetable engine, that makes respectable low end power. most of its run time will be in-town and some highway long range (100+ mile) trips, and the occasional weekend tire killing sessions. Are these pistons up to par for what im trying to accomplish? or would flat top forged units and lots of head/intake milling be a better option?

for a camshaft im leaning towards comp cams xtreme energy K20-223-3 kit, comes with adjustable dual roller timing set, springs, lifters, keepers, locks, valve guide seals. cam specs:
Basic Operating RPM Range: 1,600-5,800
Intake Duration at 050 inch Lift: 224
Exhaust Duration at 050 inch Lift: 230
Duration at 050 inch Lift: 224 int./230 exh.
Advertised Intake Duration: 268
Advertised Exhaust Duration: 280
Advertised Duration: 268 int./280 exh.
Intake Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio: 0.477 in.
Exhaust Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio: 0.480 in.
Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio: 0.477 int./0.480 exh.
Lobe Separation (degrees): 110

The transmission ill be running is a lockup 904, with a pro-king 1800-1900 stall converter, and the rear end has 2.94's currently, may step up to 3.23's with the axle swap coming in the near future. for camshaft selections sake, is this unit excessive? is there anything super specific i should pay attention to? what specs will affect bottom end? Ive been told that while degreeing the cam, if its set 4 degrees retarded that will help out the lower end power. This true?

Ill run all the current tin-work from my existing engine, factory windage tray, oil pan, valve covers, timing cover, brand new water and fuel pumps yadda yadda yadda...

oil pump, melling high volume unit, or is that a bad idea with a factory 5qt pan? do these engines run into higher rpm oiling issues like ferd FE's? and if so, approx what rpm? ill maybe tap into 5000rpm but on extremely rare occasions. Will factory bottom end parts be stable at that rpm? when complimented with ARP knurled rod bolts and main cap studs?

intake manifold.....I have a "cop car" cast 4 barrel unit currently, it has a .75 inch higher carb flange than standard 4 barrel intakes, from what i can find thats the best info i have. 360 sized ports, to mach the heads. since im not racing, does anyone see a problem with this intake? or should i run an old eddie performer 318/360 manifold that i can get for el-cheapo? topping these off will be a 650 CFM holley 4175 spreadbore with a 1 inch phenolic spacer.

Exhaust manifolds: factory cast units, drivers side, 74 360 valiant manifold (they WILL fit in an early-a by the way) passengers side 360 center dump manifold from my 73 D100. im too much of a cheap *** to get dougs headers or spitfires right now, and probably for a long while. these "logs" will have to do. The exhaust system is 2.25 head pipes for the first 1.5 feet, then 2.5 inch all the way out to the diff. Ill have an "H" pipe put in later on, and tailpipes too.

Ignition: MSD 6A, recurved and phased stock type distributor, 34 degrees total advance, all in by 1800-2100 rpm. NGK GR4 V-powers, 8mm wires and a MSD Blaster coil.

gaskets. good ol fel-pro, however for head gaskets, is it advantageous to run mopar performance or cometic multi layered steel units over fel-pro permatorqe gaskets? do i really need steel head gaskets with iron heads? or would that be an un-needed expense?

Theres the basic run-down for whats been rattling around in my head :evil3: critiques, recommendations, and pointers are more than welcome. many thanks!!