No start after tuneup, 440

Very first thing is to check spark

You MUST check spark by using the key, and NOT by jumpering the start relay.

So use two people, or "rig" a gap. You can buy test gaps, or "rig" a spare plug, or even pull one plug.

It is important to check for QUALITY of spark. If you have two people, one operates the key, the other holds a screwdriver/ probe grounded to the block, and hold near the top of the coil tower. You should get a nice, snappy blue spark at least 3/8" long and typically more like 1/2"

If this happens, double triple check your cap/ plug wiring. You sure you didn't get the wires "off one hole?"

How much do you know about checking timing/ timing marks/ setting up the distributor? Did you have the distributor out/ loose?

If you do NOT have spark at the coil, check the ballast As posted earlier, one end of the ballast has a "U" cutout.

From "MyMopar," http://www.mymopar.com/index.php?pid=18

Look at this diagram:

http://www.mymopar.com/downloads/Ignition_System_5pin.jpg

On a 4 terminal ballast, the end WITHOUT the "U" cutout has a jumper. If not, it is turned around backwards, which puts the incorrect resistance into respective circuits

If not spark:

Run a temporary clip lead from a battery source (start relay stud) to the coil POS terminal and try again. Don't leave this hooked up any longer than necessary to check for spark.

Pull the distributor, ballast, and ECU connectors, and examine both half's of the connectors for corrosion, and "work" them in/ out to scrub the contacts clean, and "feel" for tightness.

If you have a multimeter (why don't you?) hook it (on low AC volts) to the distributor connector and crank the engine. It should generate about 1V AC

Pull the ECU off, scrape around the bolt holes both on the ECU and firewall and reinstall with star washers.

Get more serious. Clip your multimeter to the coil POS and measure voltage in key/ run and when cranking. In "crank" you should get at least 10.5V, the higher the better, and in no case below 10.5

Clip your test light or meter to coil NEG and crank the engine. You should see "pulsing" (bright/ dim) as the engine cranks.

Check the distributor gap with a .008" (inches, not metric) feeler gauge made of brass. You can buy these at O'Really Auto Parts.

If none of the above helps, try another ballast because they are cheap, probably next the coil, and last the ECU.