steering coupler replacement (how to)

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Binding could be an issue if there was a significant angle between the shaft and the steering box. But in an A-body it's practically a straight line. One effect I have noticed is that it definitely transmits more road vibration, which figures, since there is no longer any rubber in the system.
 
i adjusted the lash in my steering box and installed a universal joint and it tightened up my steering. before i had about 1/3 -1/2 of a turn of slop in the steering wheel. the car would wander all over the road. now even the slightest steering input turns the wheels. one of the best things ive done to the car.

unijoint2-1.jpg
 
Agreed on all responses above. Thanks for filling in, I didn't want to write a novel, Ha! But seriously they work great!
 
I just got my U joint from Bryke. Smooth 3/4 side fits great. Spline side is way to big. Apparently what I have is a Chrysler 5/8 not 3/4. They have nothing that will work so I have to mail it back for a refund.

I tried Flaming River but they want $200 for the damn 3/4-5/8-36 spline U joint. - NO thanks.

Called Weller Racing and they have nothing that fits but are calling their manufacturer to see if they have something that'll work. Talk about a buzz kill.
 
Apparently Chrysler had a specific spline so universal U-joints wont work. Flaming River is about the only option out there for this style mod.. Its almost as much as rebuilding my entire PS Gear box going with the "firm" feel. unreal.
 
Why does a driveshaft on a pickup truck with a carrier bearing use a slip yoke at the trans? Or how about a car with a rigidly mounted independent rear axle using a rubber flex coupler (LX). Because everytime a u-joint goes through its travel the length of the shaft has to change by a very small amount.

If you read the post that was linked to I included a picture of a factory style steering intermediate shaft. For those of us that turn wrenches for a living we have been seeing and replacing that style of shaft on GM products(among others) for years due to noise complaints. The problem is caused by a lack of grease on the sliding splines preventing the shaft from extending and compressing smoothly. Why do you think they stopped using u-joints on the front end of solid axle 4wd vehicles in favor of CV joints? It wasn't bacause a CV is cheaper to make, it is much smoother.

If you want a real simple easy to duplicate test for this try this. Put a rachet in a vise, attach 3" extension, attach a universal, attach another extension. Now put the two extension so that they are NOT in a straight line. Try to turn the extension without allowing either extension to move side to side as it rotates.
 
Here's where you can see how obviously larger diameter Bryke's U-joint is..
 

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I guess if push come to shove one could use the lower inch or so of the original box coupling to make adapter bushing for a U joint that didn't fit the steering gear.
 
Master spline makes for easy assembly of engineered part groups . When mix matching parts the master spline can be removed in about 5 minutes with a dremel or small file.
 
If you check the flaming river site, under u joints they have a stainless 5/8-36 to 3/4 smooth joint for less than a $100. In addition to their longer mopar kit.
 
I just called Steer & Gear who recently rebuilt my gear box and talked to Tom who's an A-body guy. He said guys come to him with this steering coupler conversion to U-joint question all the time. Mainly guys stuffing big blocks in the A-bodies with little header room. He suggested the Borgeson over the Flaming River because of the shaft size and obvious cost difference. Apparently he hasn't had anyone come back to him with complaints so I'm going with it.

Just ordered mine from Summit - $71+$9 shipping = $80

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/brg-011864
 
Looks like a good deal and you dont have to drill a hole in the coupler.:thumbup:
 
I got the Borgeson joint in today. Spline side is way too small. Tried persuading it with a rubber mallet and no go. Ended up calling Flaming River and they confirmed that Chryslers 5/8 is bigger than the Universal 5/8 which is why Boregons U joint doesn't work. Luckily Summit did an exchange and I now have a Flaming River U Joint on the way. Third time's a charm right?
 
What is the part number at summit
 
Got the Flaming River piece in and not only does it fit the splines and shaft perfectly but it looks pretty nice too. Looking back I wish I had gone this route from the start, it would of saved me alot of time. Yeah its not cheap but once its in hand, you can see why. I just cut the shaft to size and am drilling my hole next. Happy you suggested this mod Meridian.
 

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That looks great.... and expensive!
Glad it worked out finally. Enjoy!
 
First, I'd like to say "great site for beginners like me"
That being said, I'm putting a 71 Dart together, I put the motor in (360 magnum) over the weekend and the headers are hitting the coupling from the shaft to the ps pump just enough to knock the cover off. I'm going to re pull the column (had it completely rebuilt) and change the coupler out for a steering knuckle. On a 71 Dart, all factory, would it be the 3/4" 36 spline? or the 9/16" 26 spline.
Thanks.
 
Why does a driveshaft on a pickup truck with a carrier bearing use a slip yoke at the trans? Or how about a car with a rigidly mounted independent rear axle using a rubber flex coupler (LX). Because everytime a u-joint goes through its travel the length of the shaft has to change by a very small amount.

If you read the post that was linked to I included a picture of a factory style steering intermediate shaft. For those of us that turn wrenches for a living we have been seeing and replacing that style of shaft on GM products(among others) for years due to noise complaints. The problem is caused by a lack of grease on the sliding splines preventing the shaft from extending and compressing smoothly. Why do you think they stopped using u-joints on the front end of solid axle 4wd vehicles in favor of CV joints? It wasn't bacause a CV is cheaper to make, it is much smoother.

If you want a real simple easy to duplicate test for this try this. Put a rachet in a vise, attach 3" extension, attach a universal, attach another extension. Now put the two extension so that they are NOT in a straight line. Try to turn the extension without allowing either extension to move side to side as it rotates.


Because there is a LOT of (UP/Down) movement in those areas some measured in feet of movement for off road use. if your talking steering column then there is very little movement, more like in millimeters of up and down movement due to body flex and you yanking on the wheel and almost all the a-bodies that I have seen are in a straight line or really close. compare apples to apples not apples to watermelons. A shaft ujoint works fine for a street car even a daily driver. I had a 39 plymouth that was driven daily by me for 10+ years and it never gave me a bit of trouble and it was an U joint that my dad took to the dealership and complained about road wander so that's what they put on it in 1940 and it wasn't welded in either. Dangit I should have kept that car it was awesome. AND the joint was still tight the day I sold it , June 10th 1990. so 50 years of work and still good
can't say as much about the body or brakes but it steered great.

I've turned wrenches 11+ years for a living in my younger days at dealerships, before I found a better way for me to make a living. I'm NOT knocking turning wrenches for a living since I do it now just because I LIKE doing it and it relaxes me too!
 
Got the Flaming River piece in and not only does it fit the splines and shaft perfectly but it looks pretty nice too. Looking back I wish I had gone this route from the start, it would of saved me alot of time. Yeah its not cheap but once its in hand, you can see why. I just cut the shaft to size and am drilling my hole next. Happy you suggested this mod Meridian.

How did you get the hole through the shaft exactly? I'm afraid it will drift?
 
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