904 or 727 ?

fishy68 said
I don't know everything obviously but I've been rebuilding them for over 30 yrs. (mostly 727's) and I pretty well know the best sources for parts and just can't seem to build a 904 for less than a 727, but I always figure in a converter with a billet neck which raises the price quite a bit. Maybe I'm overthinkg the converter issue, but I believe a lot of other guys also overthink the front drum issue with the 727. Is it necessary? In any race application, Yes. If your running a manual valve body with no low band apply, Yes. But in a 550 hp street car with a VB with low band apply I don't believe so. It is a saftey concern and a lot of guys get scared as soon as they see a picture of one blown apart. Funny thing is I keep seeing the same 3 or 4 pics of blown 727's. Not 100 or 1000. Not saying or trying to down play the issue, I just haven't seen proof that the problem is nearly as bad as it's made out to be.

I can understand a low torque engine could benefit far more from a 904 and if you have an early A-body a 904 is definetly the way to go.

This is just my back in 1970 opinion, LOL

BTW: How'd you get a 904 to bolt up to a big block?

The numbers I came up with are from my own real world experience. I also always run the low gear set which helps in the e.t. department. At the time my cars were running low 13s so my results will be more dramatic.

I love the 727 but why not run a baby version. My 727 in turbo car took over 1000 hp with no complaints. I dont build my own transmissions I have Pro Trans do them and the 904 is always cheaper. Go figure. So I can't really comment on why they are cheaper.

To run a 904 behind a big block I cut off the bell housing in a mill and bought a bolt on bell from JW. Dave over at Pro Trans scolded me and said the JW Ultrabell actually makes the case weaker and would have rather seen an adapter kit used. Next time I will do just that.