Torsion bar/K frame question

Hope you get another 68 on the road.

What plans do you have for the car? Is it going to be an updated stocker, a drag oriented car, an all-around good handler? Definitely do the disc upgrade because you'll be out there driving among modern cars w/ ABS, brake assist, skid control, etc. No matter how careful you drive, it only takes a second for a texter in a Lexus to do something stupid and get you in trouble.

My 68 is a Driver. LBP 73-76 A-body discs, 10 x 2-1/2 B-body rear drums on an 8-3/4 w/ resplined/shortened C-body axles, manual brakes using a Direct Connection 1-1/32 bore aluminum MC, adj. prop. valve, 15 x 7 steelies, (4) 215-60 x 15 Kumho radials, .92 front T-bars, 73-76 spool mount K frame, reinforced LCA's, Moog offset UCA bushings, Moog rubber front end parts, poly sway bar bushings, HD rear ESPO springs w/ poly bushings, 16:1 manual steering. Before it hits the road again in the spring, I'll have the DC oval track rear springs and the frame connectors installed.

Whew, all that took awhile but it was many small projects over the winters keeping it drivable for most of the summer. And I probably drove the car 5 years (in summers only) with the BBP in the front and SBP in the year. No big deal and I don't have a jack in the car anyway. This car is so solid, it feels like it weighs 5000 lbs sometimes (actually around 3230) and tracks like a freight train, but it goes where I want and stops when I want.

The 65-72 K-H discs are good (and Summit has vented rotors) but you'll be generally limited to SBP wheels. Since your /6 car more than likely has the little 7-1/4 rear, you should be looking for a heavier duty rear end. (8-1/4 or 8-3/4) I think your very FIRST decision is which bolt pattern?

My advice would be to make a plan, collect the parts, and make it happen.