steering coupler replacement (how to)

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Because there is a LOT of (UP/Down) movement in those areas some measured in feet of movement for off road use. if your talking steering column then there is very little movement, more like in millimeters of up and down movement due to body flex and you yanking on the wheel and almost all the a-bodies that I have seen are in a straight line or really close. compare apples to apples not apples to watermelons. A shaft ujoint works fine for a street car even a daily driver. I had a 39 plymouth that was driven daily by me for 10+ years and it never gave me a bit of trouble and it was an U joint that my dad took to the dealership and complained about road wander so that's what they put on it in 1940 and it wasn't welded in either. Dangit I should have kept that car it was awesome. AND the joint was still tight the day I sold it , June 10th 1990. so 50 years of work and still good
can't say as much about the body or brakes but it steered great.

I've turned wrenches 11+ years for a living in my younger days at dealerships, before I found a better way for me to make a living. I'm NOT knocking turning wrenches for a living since I do it now just because I LIKE doing it and it relaxes me too!

I was not going to post again. But since you took the time you are correct and the response to u-joints and steering shafts of what was mentioned and the concerns is not an apples to apples comparison!..the steering shaft has such minimal movement. Along with other on this site I have been turning wrenches for 20 years but I don't think that's relevant to the topic. This is just straight forward simple engineering.
 
How did you get the hole through the shaft exactly? I'm afraid it will drift?

the adapter has a hole that you drill through..pretty simple..

I have done two of them with the flaming river adapter....
 
the adapter has a hole that you drill through..pretty simple..

I have done two of them with the flaming river adapter....

Thanks Cuda.
Was a piece of cake. Just wish I would have realized that the header was in the way earlier on.
Thanks again.
 

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How did you get the hole through the shaft exactly? I'm afraid it will drift?

If you go with the flaming river piece it has a pre-drilled hole on one side of the coupler which makes perfect for a pilot hole. Go to your local hardware store and get a Cobalt 5/16" hardened drill bit, should run about $6. I was like you thinking it would be hard to drill thru the shaft but it literally took me 5 minutes with 0 difficulty level.
 
I originally thought to use a 5/16 bolt and nut combo to secure to the shaft but then realized Flaming River gives you a 5/16 roll-pin that goes in flush. Looks much cleaner overall.
 

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I thought I'd dig out this old thread instead of starting a new one. My 71 power steering box is 5/8". so from what I can tell Flaming River may be my only option to replace my factory worn out coupler with the u-joint style coupler. They have two separate listings, and I'm not sure which would be best. I'd prefer the cheaper method. I tried to call FR but they were closed for the night, I'll try again tomorrow morning.

Flaming River Steering Couplers FR1506P
This looks like what most guys are using.

Is anyone using this one?
5/8"-36 (Chrysler) X 3/4" Smooth Universal Billet-Joint - FR1757 - 574 - 5365


Since this thread is older, how are your couplers holding up? Any issues?
 
Be nice to hear some answers, I just purchased one from Summit yesterday.
Anyone know the diameter of the 5/8-36C coupler from flaming River
 
Are you trying to stick to the factory setup? I switched to something like this and it works great!

http://www.wellerracing.com/Sweet-Mfg-Steering-U-Joint-34-Smooth-TO-34-36-Spline_p_2111.html
Hey there MERIDIAN. So I noticed this is about a decades old thread but thought I'd give you a holler and hopefully it reaches you. With this universal u joint set up you installed on your steering shaft did you get more or notice an increase in vibration on your steering wheel?
 
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