Best way to take out a slant 6?

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Firsttimemopar14

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would it be easier to take the trans out with the engine or just the /6? and where should i mount it? im taking it out to rebuild the engine if anyone has a step by step process or has pictures of how thatd be great.
 
It goes really quick if you take the engine and trans out together. I'll post a pic soon of how I hooked mine to the hoist.
 
I hooked the chain up to the raised boss on the head by the intake, then the other on the front where the thermostat housing was, just ran a bolt in it and it came out nice with the trans.
 

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Firsttimemopar14 said:
how hard was it to get everthing back in and hooked up, cause im worried about the linkage on the trans
Click to expand...

Yes, it is easy to pull it as an assembly. Just unhook the tranny linkage and put it back on without messing with any adjustments. Pulling it as an assembly will allow you to clean up everything before your reinstall it.
 
Buy the appropriate year service manual off of eBay they are like 800 pages with pictures. And exploded views. Best 50 bucks I've spent.
 
basically though, you just need a jack, an engine hoist (also called a cherry picker) and an engine stand.

you attach the hoist chain to a couple spots on the block (one by the front one by the back) you unhook everything and jack it slowly. you will need to jack the car up so you can unhook motor mounts and trans mount.

dont forget to unhook your shifter linkages first! take a picture of everything before you unhook it also

you can lower it down somewhat and get the trans off, then lift the engine back up higher and bolt it to your engine stand

the engine stands dont roll real well on gravel driveways with the engine on them, so be prepared for that.
 
I prefer pulling it as once piece. Remove the starter and then you'll have access to the 4 bolts holding the flexplate to the torque converter. Make a mark on the flex plate and the torque converter so you know how to line it up when it goes back on. You'll only be able to see one bolt at a time so after you remove the first one, rotate the engine until the next bolt comes around.

Disconnect the kickdown linkage from the carburetor, that way you don't have to deal with getting it aligned correctly down on the transmission. If you take it off the transmission it'll take some time to get it to shift correctly again.
 
the 2 threaded bosses on the head are balance points for the motor (front) and motor/trans (rear). Bolt a lifting tab to either one and hook it. Youll loose buckets of tranny fluid if you dont put a plug on the output shaft or use an old slip yoke. You can do it from the bottom too...4 K member bolts, remove torsion bars and pop UCA ball joints. Lift up front of car and roll out the motor/K.
 
If you need to rebuild your suspension and steering too, do as pishta said and unbolt the K-frame and a few other parts (steering column, upper control arms, T-bars, hoses, wires) and lift the front body up, then roll the assembly out. You can find several posts w/ photos by searching.
 
pishta said:
the 2 threaded bosses on the head are balance points for the motor (front) and motor/trans (rear). Bolt a lifting tab to either one and hook it. Youll loose buckets of tranny fluid if you dont put a plug on the output shaft or use an old slip yoke. You can do it from the bottom too...4 K member bolts, remove torsion bars and pop UCA ball joints. Lift up front of car and roll out the motor/K.
Click to expand...

So, if using the threaded bosses - do you only attach to 1 or the other (front for motor only, back for motor and trans?) - or, if pulling both, do you attach to both?

I saw a plate that someone was having made that apparently matches some factory lifting plate?

The manual references several ChryCo tools by number, but with no illustration.


I'm using a 4 post lift, so dropping the k-member won't work.

I've got everything disconnected/drained in the engine compartment
I'm going to drop the prop shaft (it's a ball and trunion - 4 bolts, one of which is right on top - can I reach that with a wrench, or do I need to lift the back end and rotate the wheels to spin it down where I can reach it?)

I'm planning to use my roller jack (rides between the ramps on the lift - see pic below) to support the trans.

I think that, after I drop and tie the prop shaft, I can unbolt the transmission cross member to free up the trans, then raise the jack under it to support it?

Then drop the lift and hoist the engine out (still have to undo the motor mounts).
Will the jack be in the way when I'm starting to lift it?

Thanks!

John
 

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"Bolt a lifting tab to either one and hook it."

Also - what is a lifting tab?

I've only done this with chains bolted to the block/head or using an engine lift plate (the kind that bolts to the intake manifold in place of the carb).
 
Chains bolted to the head work fine; just use at least a grade 5 bolts; 2" is good, with a soft flat washer under the bolt head.

I bolted the chain between the 2 holes with some slack and moved the hook to near the front for engine alone; in that way, the load is partly carried on the 2nd bolt. The engine also hangs more stably that way. I also put a 2nd safety chain hooked on the engine; don't want a faulty bolt breaking and taking out my car or me. I have also bolted a lifting eye plate along the chain that is between the 2 head bolt holes to spread the load.

For the jack under the trannie, put a block of wood on it and lift the jack in place lightly BEFORE removing the trans x-member; there is a lot of weight on the trans mount, like 100-200 lbs. Once the hoist has the engine weight on it and you have lifted that 1/2" or so, then start to lower the jack. It is ideal if you can move the jack forward and lower it bit by bit as the engine is rasied and gets to the final lift angle.

You'll have to remove the rear U-joint to get the driveshaft out with the ball & trunnion so lift th rear anyway. It would be nigh impossible to properly re-torque all the B&T nuts back in place without turning the driveshaft.

BTW, I personally prefer to disconnect an auto trans and leave it in the car unless I am going to work on the trans at the same time as the engine. The auto trans disconnect is easy IMO, just make sure the torque converter does not pop out, and the trans front is jacked up or has a strap supporting it. You don't have to mess with the speedo, driveshaft, draining gobs of ATF, etc. Pulling off and re-installing an auto out of the car is no easier than in car IMO as they tend to be heavy.

For a manual, I remove the trans and leave the bell housing & clutch package in place, or pull the manual trans with the engine.
 
Best way to take out a slant six...............
 

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I used to always pull the trans with the engine but I find it easier just to disconnect the trans and pull the engine by itself. That way you don't have to drain the transmission or disconnect the trans lines, drive-shaft or gear selector.
 
I guess you could find a reason to rebuild a slanty. I cant.On that note, Id say burn that bridge with TNT. Oh, wait, I heard they get pretty good gas mileage. No, thats not it.I know; theyre a real smooth running engine.And they respond well to turbocharging. But then if youre gonna turbo something, it might as well be a V8.But,wait,How much boost does a 360 need to make a fun 400hp? Thats right. ZERO. Or 450? naw, just bigger cam. Or say 500? Well now youre pushing the envelope. Ok, Ill stick with smooth running.Sorry. I think I just joined the a$$---- crowd.
On a sidenote,I do have a slanty in my winter beater.And I did rebuild it in 1994.Its still going strong. I think its pushing a half a million kilometers.That would be 300,000 miles for you southern friends. Oh, so thats it! Long-lived. Ok then cancel the TNT order.
-I dont like to spend very much time on my back under the car anymore.So, unless its a M/T, Id be pulling the motor and trans together. M/Ts are pie. I can stand that.I mean, just 4 bolts,bit of linkage, and a sling;it can stay.Then again, maybe Id just pull it with the motor, too. SO: Coin toss.
-PS. trannys are way heavier when youre under them, than when youre tossing them around standing up. Im thinking at least 5 or 10 times as heavy. And the older I get the heavier they seem to get.
 
66340SEDAN said:
I hooked the chain up to the raised boss on the head by the intake, then the other on the front where the thermostat housing was, just ran a bolt in it and it came out nice with the trans.
Click to expand...
I did the same but can someone give me some info on this transmission I can find anything about this transmission. I'm guessing its a A390 trans. I need some help with what ways these transmissions shift sorry to bomb the tread with this hopefully someone has info
 
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