Project 6-71 340 Demon

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AirWoofer, nice info on the Mod Man intake and the offset distributor. I figured there would be clearance issues.


Jack, can u use a regular distributor with your combo?
 
I spoke to Indy Cyl Head, seems once they mocked up a blower/ Mod Man Intake combo, they realized that a standard dist won't work. LOL
As the salesman told me, "It's no big deal, the offset dist is $795 and that allows you to use our cheap priced manifold."

So an offset dist is required.
 
airwoofer said:
I likey! That twin intake scoop with the working butterflys will really look cool if you run it.

Next up after it runs is... stroker? Check out the crate engine Indy has - 725HP!

http://www.indyheads.com/408smallblock.html

Notice the offset distributor they had to use? Not sure why they didn't use alum heads. What is with the square ex ports? See how they had to externally plum an elec water pump? Might make your PS / PBs easier to fit.

408.jpg


cutaway408.jpg
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before you puchase the indy distributor mock up everything first with the stock distributor first to make sure of what's needed. also make sure if the offset one is needed, measure to see if it's going to hit the fire wall. the same with your water pump, mock it up first.
 
Kinda misleading that Indy's website doesn't clearly state," When using a supercharger, an offset dist is required. "
It's an $800 added expense to correct a design flaw in their own manifold design.
I know an offset dist wouldn't clear my firewall.
 
Can you take the timing signal off the front of the crank with a "whatever" is used on the balancer? Looks like a pickup wouldn't be a big clearance issue. Would still need to put some kind of downward thing on the oil pump drive like a flat mock distributor I think. Has probably been worked out before cause people use crank triggers already.
 
The Australian Max Wedge manifold is the only way to go for 71 series blowers on a sb Mopar. Its a cast 6-71 one piece manifold that is top of the line quality and engineering.
The Mod Man is good for 144 thru 174 low profile blowers.
 
I was just checking the dizzy. It is so close I can't tell if it will work or not until I set everything on the engine. That has to wait until tomorrow. It's cold out in my garage tonight and I am not going to work in the cold when I can have it nice and warm tomorrow.
If it's that close, the areas that might be hitting can be changed a little to make it fit.

Jack
 
I was just thinking about the intake a little more. I don't think it is going to matter a whole lot if it doesn't work right off. The blower plate on top of the intake has room to allow the blower to move forward at least a half inch and that is more than I would need with this dizzy. I will take a pic and post it so you can see what I mean.

Jack
 

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O.K.

In the first pic the top of the photo is the front of the intake. You can clearly see in the second pic that the left side of the plate is the front.

Here is what I am thinking. If I do have a problem with fit, dizzy wise. I can take the top plate to my machinist friend and have him drill 8 new holes to locate the blower 1/2 inch forward. These holes would take the place of the outer 8 holes that are presently there. The other thing I might do is have him cut off 3/8 of an inch from the very back of the plate. This would leave me with some overhang in the top of the plenum but I am not racing this car and not looking for every last horsepower.

What do you think? Good idea or bad?

Also, you can see that Indy new they had a problem as the back of the intake has already been shaved for clearance.

Jack
 
WoW, it was a close call. I set the intake and blower on the engine today. The bad news was I am going to have to have the head mating surface of the intake planed down. I didn't know the heads had been planed in the past. The only way I could get the bolt holes to line up was to take the gaskets out and then it was tight.

On to the intake and blower fitment. It looks like the only thing I will have to do is take 3/8 of an inch off of the very rear of the blower mounting plate. There is lots of meat there as it overhangs the rest of the intake by quite a bit. The blower did not interfere at all after I took the decorative MSD plate off the top of the dizzy. It's tight but should work no problem.

Looks like I dodged a bullet on this one.

Jack
 
I took a couple of pics. Here is what I have. You can see that the overhang of the mounting plate does nothing but that so I should be able to cut it off with no side effects. That dizzy is close but does clear by enough. The cap is sloped so it will miss everything above after I cut the 3/8 off the plate.
Another testament to how bad condensation is. I really have to clean up that dizzy and soon.

Jack
 

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It looks like the allen heads are very close to cap/wires ? Possibly substitute button heads or flush head torx ? As an alternative to the $800 offset distributor, if using a remote electric water pump, you might consider driving a shortbody dist. with a crab cap, off the end of the cam ? Further in left field/last resort,drive the distributor off of the blower belt. Normally this would be 1/2 crank speed, but "some" might run at crank speed,(2 coils for enough spark voltage). Good Luck, ateam.:burnout:
 
Coyote Jack said:
I took a couple of pics. Here is what I have. You can see that the overhang of the mounting plate does nothing but that so I should be able to cut it off with no side effects. That dizzy is close but does clear by enough. The cap is sloped so it will miss everything above after I cut the 3/8 off the plate.
Another testament to how bad condensation is. I really have to clean up that dizzy and soon.

Jack
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Cool. That is going to be one mean looking motor when its all done!!
 
Mad Dart said:
Cool. That is going to be one mean looking motor when its all done!!
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X2, that intake looks alot smoother and nicer than the hacked up Hampton blower manifolds.
Is there provisions for a pop off valve? And did Indy Cyl include a pop off valve with the supercharger plate?
 
MiradaMegaCab said:
X2, that intake looks alot smoother and nicer than the hacked up Hampton blower manifolds.
Is there provisions for a pop off valve? And did Indy Cyl include a pop off valve with the supercharger plate?
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Indy doesn't give you anything with it. No pop off valve, no provision for one and no bolts to hold the two pieces together. It is going to work after I add all of the above and get the other machining done. There is room in a couple of places for a pop off valve. I will get one and have that machining done to.

It is a pretty nice piece though. LOL

Jack
 
Learn to love Remington "Rem Oil" and use it liberally on hardened parts. I fight the same issue with condensation in my cold/damp shop. I also use the stuff on valve springs, rocker shafts, cylinder walls, etc.

REM24027_1.jpg
 
Yup, Rem Oil is great stuff. I'm a hunter and have used it for years. Just didn't want to spray the inside of my dizzy with it.

Jack
 
Is there anything wrong with mounting my top pulley the way it is in this pic?

Jack
 

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Coyote Jack said:
Is there anything wrong with mounting my top pulley the way it is in this pic?

Jack
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No, you can run the pulley inboard or outboard like you have it. I run mine outboard too. Otherwise, you'd have to run a longer (more expensive) snout or more spacers than recommended.

On the 440 I have a 5.75" BDS snout and a single .300" spacer. Would have to go to an 8" snout and different coupler to run it inboard.
 
That's exactly what I was worried about. I have the SBC snout and with a .400 spacer, I can run it on my 340. I will have to run a crank spacer of about 2 inches. I won't know the exact measurement until I get my intake back at the end of the week. It looks like I will end up with about 1/4 inch of space between my blower belt and my V-belt.

Jack
 
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