High volts

txstang84 said

Well, I did bypass it by doing exactly what you mentioned-I ran an 8ga wire directly to the battery side of the starter relay...however, I retained the other 10ga wire that ran thround the bulkhead with a fuse link so I could keep the circuits fed by it inside the cab since it feeds the fuse box.

After all this nonsense, I'll probably run that wire over from the starter relay as opposed to the alternator charge post...

Click to expand...

Running a jumper from the battery to the starter relay does NOTHING. Please re--read my post

Here is the path that you are up against:

"Hot side:"

The voltage that the regulator IGN terminal "sees" MUST be within a very few tenths of a volt as the battery. How does battery voltage "get" to the regulator IGN terminal?

This path:

Battery---starter relay--fuse link--bulkhead connector--ammeter--in harness splice--ignition switch connector--through the switch--out the switch connector (dark blue ignition wire)--back out the bukhead--to the

ballast resistor

regulator "I" terminal

alternator field on 70/ later vehicles

some smog equipment on some vehicles, IE choke heater, distributor solenoid, idle solenoid

ANY of the items in the above "path" can cause voltage drop---any connector, and in fact occasionally, one of us finds a broken in-harness splice. This is a large splice in the black ammeter wire which splits off and feeds the headlight switch, ignition switch, and the fuse panel "hot" buss.



f