RLF Cuda said

I have rebuild Chrysler alternators for years myself. Dead simple, except for the front bearing which requires a puller for the drive pully. If you are just getting no charge or low charge, check the brushes and diodes. I haven't checked lately, but diodes were available from Napa and were cheap. There are positive and negative diodes in groups of three connected by solder to the outer ring wiring. Check continuity of the armature and stator per the FSM, replace only the failed diodes and brushes, and you have a brand new alternator just like the rebuilders would do, but you did it yourself. The FSM is a gem for working on this problem.Bob

Click to expand...

RLF Cuda said

Also, I solved my bulkhead connector problems by wiring the alternator directly to the positive post of the starter solenoid using something like 4 gauge wiring and soldered connectors. This avoids running all electrical power through the amp meter. You now use it to just show that power is flowing positively or negatively through the system as it will be split between the two power paths. I have Ampilux H4 headlamps (work great) on the car and use Bosch relays to control power to the lights. I also have a 65 amp alternator (larger windings in the stator) instead of the original 35 amp alternator. If you have additional power using equipment on the car, like a high amp stereo or aftermarket lights, you need more output from the stock alternator. This alone can cause dimming lights and component failure.

Click to expand...