High volts

No worries man, all these cars are >35 years old with sub par electrical systems, so everyone has problems with them. I almost burnt my car down a few years ago, so I bypassed the ammeter with an 8ga charge wire...routes all the load directly to the battery instead of through the cab.

I was fortunate Y1 actually had the harness I need in stock-it should ship out this afternoon...I can't claim any familiarity with later models with exception to what I've read on here, but don't the later model As have some differences in the way the harness is constructed?

If you have an ammeter still, this is only my personal feeling, but I'd either bypass it altogether and live with it being a dead gauge, or search the threads here and run the reduced amps method. 67dart273 I think has some threads on modifying it to where it's less likely to cause issues. But, if you're having overcharging problems, read all the way through this thread and check your voltage loss between the battery and ignition wire going to the VR as directed in the thread-you'll probably find your culprit just like I did. You'll need a good multimeter and a working knowledge of your wiring harness (gotta find the junctions and where the wires go). It's not terribly difficult, but can be time consuming if you have to pull your dash apart to find a corroded/burnt wire or splice.

First place to check, as mentioned in this thread, will be your bulkhead connector. I don't know how many VRs you've gone through already, but I went through 3 and they all charged the same way. If you're cranking out more than 14.5V, you've got a voltage drop somewhere in your harness as the VR should only command the alternator to charge volts up to ~14.5V as detected by the VR at the ignition wire...make sense?

That's what mine showed at the alternator blue wire (excite), but since there was a 1.1V drop across the circuit between the battery and the ignition wire, the alternator was charging to ~15.5V at the battery. I could temporarily short a jumper from the charge wire of the alternator to the excite terminal, and the volts would immediately drop to 14.6V, but that will cause a constant power drain to the alternator field since it bypasses the ignition switched lead, and it's not how the alternator is supposed to work. It also makes you want to ignore the fact that the circuit is failing somewhere.

Like I said, read through this thread all the way, run a couple searches, and read them, arm yourself with a good wiring diagram, a multimeter, and some patience and you'll find your problem.