Engine fired up first time...but electrical help needed
Changed the solid state reg and checked the connections.
Thought I had the problem licked because the ammeter was showing only a slight charge......but the shunt wire does reduce the amount of measured current thru the ammeter so thats something?
Put a meter on the alt but its still pumping out 18 volts at idle.
Then something blew under the dash so we shut it down.
Going to check all grounds and under dash wiring tomorrow
YIKES
There are only so many problems that can cause this
1--Battery is not truly connected to the alternator output
2--Bad regulator, bad regulator ground
3--If one end of alternator field (broken terminal insulator, etc) is grounded, and ignition feed is hooked to other field terminal, then alternator will "full field" and produce full output
4--Low ignition feed to regulator IGN terminal will cause overvoltage, but not normally to this extent
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I realize that now some damage has been done, this might get complicated, but
It is important to "watch" throttle settings and monitor battery voltage along with alternator output stud voltage to be sure both are "close to each other."
Determine that the field/ regulator wiring "has control" by disconnecting the regulator connector. Output of alternator should drop, IE battery should drop, eventually down to 12.6 or lower
If this seems OK, briefly test field wiring by first
A. With regulator plug disconnected, ground the green field wire briefly. At slightly fast idle, this should cause some output, IE battery voltage should go up from 12.6
(The above is the wire from one alternator field terminal to the regulator field)
to 14 OR MORE
B. Remove the field wire which goes to switched ignition, and ground that alternator field terminal. At the regulator connector, jumper the two terminals in the connector together. This should cause the same result as "A" above.
If these two tests are OK, the wiring "should have" control of the alternator.
C. Double check that the FIELD wire from the alternator to the regulator is actually hooked to the OUTER terminal in the regulator connector. With alternator field unhooked, regulator connector unhooked, and key off, this is a simple continuity check.
D. If none of the above shows any problems, check voltage at the field terminal coming from switched ignition, key "in run" but engine not running. This voltage should be within .2V of "same as battery."
E. DOUBLE check that regulator is actually grounded, IE scrape clean, use star washers, etc.
You have already tried another regulator?
