Proposed cam specs
Here you go-
The grinding that I did was initially experemental as I was looking for something to start a dual exhaust system with. I had two sets, one cracked so I started messing with it until I blew through it to see how far I could safely go. You can take a bit out of it, but I opted to modify the corner of the power steering case and manifold, as not to encroach on wall thickness on either one too much.
They have about 1/2" clearance between each other on crappy old spool type mounts. If I got new mounts, I'm sure they would sit even further apart, but they don't hit anywhere. The rust is from pressure washing and where I ground the cast colored paint from the steering box. Never mind the oil on the intake bolts, the entire upper half of the engine is coming apart soon for some mods (that I will be taking pics of for that thread) this weekend.
One thing you could do is shim your mounts a touch, as you have the early style mount, if it contacts. You can cut about 1/4" deep on the ridge of the manifold in a crescent and it should clear with plenty of wall left in the manifold. I also had to to take some superficial material from the bolt ears on the manifold to exhaust collar. For some reason, it wouldn't clear something. I think maybe the block, for some reason, but it was really minimal.
What I did to find out where to clearance the manifold and steering was take some colored grease paint, like a pastel or something that will transfer and coated the areas that I thought or knew looked close, then just removed material until I saw that the manifold wasn't marking anymore and had clearance for movement.
The engine rocks over to the right, away from the steering, so it doesn't hit.
The other modification that you can see is that I pulled the front and rear exhaust mount studs with some vice grips and replaced them with bolts. This was because I couldn't get the manifold over the studs with the engine in place around the steering box at the rear, so I had to slip it down in to place to put the bolts in, but that's not a big deal. The trick is to use a one piece gasket, get the front in and swing the back of the manifold and gasket to align for the bolt, then you can get the rest easy.
I also heat shielded the battery cable for the starter with some reflective insulating sleeve, down low that you can sort of see. The rear dump gets close to the cable, but isn't a heat issue on the starter. The trucks have more room to the firewall, so the cable isn't an issue on them, because they come over, further back.
The passenger side was a no-brainer, but would obviously require relocating your pipes to accomodate the rear dump.
Man, I can't wait until I get the new stuff on this engine and clean it up a bit.
Anyway, I hope this helps. I really like having them on the car, because it makes maintenance easy and gives better exhaust flow, without making me cringe over speed bumps and dips.
Here you go-
The grinding that I did was initially experemental as I was looking for something to start a dual exhaust system with. I had two sets, one cracked so I started messing with it until I blew through it to see how far I could safely go. You can take a bit out of it, but I opted to modify the corner of the power steering case and manifold, as not to encroach on wall thickness on either one too much.
They have about 1/2" clearance between each other on crappy old spool type mounts. If I got new mounts, I'm sure they would sit even further apart, but they don't hit anywhere. The rust is from pressure washing and where I ground the cast colored paint from the steering box. Never mind the oil on the intake bolts, the entire upper half of the engine is coming apart soon for some mods (that I will be taking pics of for that thread) this weekend.
One thing you could do is shim your mounts a touch, as you have the early style mount, if it contacts. You can cut about 1/4" deep on the ridge of the manifold in a crescent and it should clear with plenty of wall left in the manifold. I also had to to take some superficial material from the bolt ears on the manifold to exhaust collar. For some reason, it wouldn't clear something. I think maybe the block, for some reason, but it was really minimal.
What I did to find out where to clearance the manifold and steering was take some colored grease paint, like a pastel or something that will transfer and coated the areas that I thought or knew looked close, then just removed material until I saw that the manifold wasn't marking anymore and had clearance for movement.
The engine rocks over to the right, away from the steering, so it doesn't hit.
The other modification that you can see is that I pulled the front and rear exhaust mount studs with some vice grips and replaced them with bolts. This was because I couldn't get the manifold over the studs with the engine in place around the steering box at the rear, so I had to slip it down in to place to put the bolts in, but that's not a big deal. The trick is to use a one piece gasket, get the front in and swing the back of the manifold and gasket to align for the bolt, then you can get the rest easy.
I also heat shielded the battery cable for the starter with some reflective insulating sleeve, down low that you can sort of see. The rear dump gets close to the cable, but isn't a heat issue on the starter. The trucks have more room to the firewall, so the cable isn't an issue on them, because they come over, further back.
The passenger side was a no-brainer, but would obviously require relocating your pipes to accomodate the rear dump.
Man, I can't wait until I get the new stuff on this engine and clean it up a bit.
Anyway, I hope this helps. I really like having them on the car, because it makes maintenance easy and gives better exhaust flow, without making me cringe over speed bumps and dips.
