Small block coolant bypass hose diameter?

Does anyone else feel that the coolant bypass 340/360 that comes off the front of the intake back into the water pump is too big of a diameter? My previous 340 combo always had a issue running hot. Currently finishing up a 408 stroker off a 360 block. I will be changing alot of things on the coolant system to help improve the temps this time around. I currently have a hi flow Flo-Cooler pump, switching from a aluminum down flow to a aluminum cross flow radiator, and will be purchasing a new eletric fan and shroud combo as soon as I get the motor dropped back in to see how much room I have to work with between the radiator and pulleys. I may also be fabing up some additional shrouds in the grill on the sides of the raditaor to block air from going around any opening I may have on the sides forcing it through the radiator.

I will also need to run a second coolant sensor for my future FAST EFI install and I am all out of usable ports on the intake. So I was thinking of intergrating one into the bypass hose and at the same time possibly reducing the diameter to force more flow through the radiator when the thermostat is open rather than a good portion of it being bypassed.

What do you think?

I dont think I would modify the bypass. Leave it the stock size. remember there are thousands of stroker small blocks out there that don't necessarily have an overheating issue. I like to use the MP clutch fan, they draw quite a few CFM over an electric unit.

Nice lookin engine though. are those March Perf pulleys?

Yes that is the March pulleys set. There is also a power steering pulley that is still in the engine bay, and a alternator pulley that was not compatible to switch over to Chevy 1 wire alternator I run now from my old mopar unit.

Do not reduce the flow through the bypass.

The bypass keeps the flow volume up in the cooling system, and reduces the thermal cycling stresses. Chrysler engineers got this part right, and they were kind of anal about cooling systems.

The LA engine had two different water pumps based on fan speed. The A/C cars had an increased fan speed, so mopar reduced the blade count on the A/C water pump. They were trying to reduce the pressure from the pump a little, it really had nothing to do with cavitation.

It looks like you have an under drive water pump pulley. I would increase the water pump speed by changing the drives, a slight overdrive from crankshaft speed would be good.

A high flow of water through the block from front to back is what you want the bypass helps do just that.

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Thanks you for the advice but these damn pulley sets cost $600 So I'm not willing to drop any of them at that price. I still get pissed ever time I look at the alternator missing it's pulley from the kit. But I will take the advice and leave the hose diameter alone. I may still need to install a temp gauge in the line for my efi setup. Not sure, may look into drilling and taping a spot that currently has a plug because it's to small for the sensor.

Thanks