**73 Scamp Mini Pro-Street Engine Swap**

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The only thing that makes me nervous is the header caps and the placement of the fuel lines. You may want to fab up a plate to cover the lines or direct the heat away from them on that side. Otherwise I like it. I'm also not a fan of hard aluminum line. I'd much rather run braid.
 
moper said:
The only thing that makes me nervous is the header caps and the placement of the fuel lines. You may want to fab up a plate to cover the lines or direct the heat away from them on that side. Otherwise I like it. I'm also not a fan of hard aluminum line. I'd much rather run braid.
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I will never un cap the car. On these headers someone cut off the 3 bolt flange and welded in the cut outs.

Those headers are coming off and I have some TTI's that will be going in with the 410 Stroker motor in a few weeks. I too don't like the Aluminum hard line. I will for sure be going braided on the next one. The braided line is so much easier to work with, without a doubt.
 
If you go braided, run right past the rubber style liners and put PTFE lined hose on it. Only real issue is bend radius.

New fuel chews the snot out of the rubber style liners and you get fuel stink from it bleeding through.

After all the wasted alum line, buying tube sleeves/nuts/bulkheads, etc, I would have been within $20-30 running teflon hose from front to rear.
 
crackedback said:
If you go braided, run right past the rubber style liners and put PTFE lined hose on it. Only real issue is bend radius.

New fuel chews the snot out of the rubber style liners and you get fuel stink from it bleeding through.

After all the wasted alum line, buying tube sleeves/nuts/bulkheads, etc, I would have been within $20-30 running teflon hose from front to rear.
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Good point Rob! I wonder why my 70 Dart always had a lil stink to it if it was sitting in the garage........

I have a lil bit of that PTFE hose for some trans lines I am working on. I have not installed the ends yet. I did watch a video and they are much more work to install than the standard AN Fittings...... I'll figure it out one way or the other!

On another note I walked into the garage this morning and NO FUEL is leaking at all from anywhere. Plus there is absolutely NO STINK. I am very happy that the fuel system is ready to go now and that the GAS Monkey is off my back!! Maybe I am partial to the Hard line after all!! LOL :D
 
Louis, I can't believe how fast you are working on her! Glad you are doing something with the car and it is no longer just sitting somewhere collecting dust. Keep up the good work :)
 
challengergary said:
Louis, I can't believe how fast you are working on her! Glad you are doing something with the car and it is no longer just sitting somewhere collecting dust. Keep up the good work :)
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Thanks Gary! It would have went much faster if I didn't have to wait on parts. Kinda glad it worked out like that cause I changed directions for the better in a few areas of the fuel system. It will be back on the streets soon.

No more leaking fuel or smell. I am one happy camper. :cheers:
 
Louis,
Impressive build you have going here. I've been lurking for a while. I was really close to buying this car myself, but I'm glad you scooped it up.

I noticed you ran the vent line up into the trunk area, put a few loops in, and ran it out to the fill neck area. I was wondering if you had any provisions for a one-way valve in this system? I had to create a fairly custom vent on my fuel system and I figured I had to run a one-way valve that would only let air in so that fuel would not leak out in the event of a roll-over.

I'm not sure if the coiled fuel line will prevent leaks in a roll-over, but I'm also not sure if a check-valve is required by tech.
Just thought I'd mention it.

Take care, and I look forward to seeing more updates!

-Mike
 
Could someone post a link to what is considered the preferred fuel line? (The PTFE stuff).
Thanks.
 
Get some videos at the MATS!!! There's plenty of racers going. You are racing the car, right ;)?
 
crackedback said:
Chris, I think they changed that part of the rule book. You can't route inside the driveline tunnel. If that includes any area between the frame rails, I've (and many others) been doing and getting away with naughty stuff for 30+ years.

The latest RB I saw said that it had to be encased in .125 pipe for 16" through the FW area.

Do Mopars actually have a flywheel when running an auto?

I had that discussion with the tech guys before, we don't.... ever see a converter on a 10.00 or slower mopar detonate? I haven't. The problem with these rules is they are too general to fit every car make design.

The cars that have aluminum line in the inner fender wells should not pass tech, you aren't suppose to have fuel lines in the tire areas. Our unibody cars are a PIA to get fuel lines run in a "legal" manner if not running steel braided line
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Good point. I guess a little common sense goes a long way. The only time I have had tech issues is with a REALLY fast car. My street cars I get away with murder. I think that if you think things through you can meet the intent of the rules while not meeting the letter. If its a street race car (like madscamp has) then go for it!!
 
73SwingerBuild said:
Louis,
Impressive build you have going here. I've been lurking for a while. I was really close to buying this car myself, but I'm glad you scooped it up.

I noticed you ran the vent line up into the trunk area, put a few loops in, and ran it out to the fill neck area. I was wondering if you had any provisions for a one-way valve in this system? I had to create a fairly custom vent on my fuel system and I figured I had to run a one-way valve that would only let air in so that fuel would not leak out in the event of a roll-over.

I'm not sure if the coiled fuel line will prevent leaks in a roll-over, but I'm also not sure if a check-valve is required by tech.
Just thought I'd mention it.

Take care, and I look forward to seeing more updates!

-Mike
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Well the vent actually comes off the tank at the stock location and follows next to the fuel filler neck. It then has 3 loops in it then exits through the trunk floor with a Lil filter on it under the car. I could add a check valve pretty easily if it ever needed one. If the car ever rolled over I am sure fuel would slowly leak out the filler neck at the gas cap if it landed on the drivers side or upside down.
 
Ok the wiring Fiasco has started. I got the Fuel Pump all wired in. Fixed the Tach wiring. Fired the car up and set the fuel pressure to 5.5lbs. That BAD stink of old gas is gone. It is still a lil rich at Idle but I believe when I get to tuning it and bump up the initial timing that rich idle condition will go away.

I took apart all the light sockets and cleaned them then replaced all the bad bulbs. All blinkers, brake lights etc are all woking and very bright now. I will be painting the inside of the reflector area of the light assembly's that Aluminum color to get the rear tail lights back to the bright RED when the lights come on.

I ran into a few problems. Some of the dash lights don't work. I pulled the fuse block down and there are 2 of the Big wires missing on the back of the block and I can not see or FEEL them anywhere..... When inspecting the Dash to see why the wipers don't work I found out a few things...... If you turn on the wiper switch you can hear the motor running. It even has 3 speeds and you can hear them all......When I pulled the fuse block down the frickinnnnn wiper linkage was sitting right on top of the fuse block disconnected from the Drivers wiper and the Motor itself, just flopping under the dash....... If you grab the wiper blades you can move them around so Obviously they are disconnected under the dash.......... Man I have never seen such butchering in my life on stupid **** done to a car.:wack:

The trunk dome light wires were all there but bunched up and not hooked up. So I fixed that and then seen the connector for the Interior Dome light was not hooked up either. Check power with my wiggy they were getting 12V. Replaced the bulbs and BAMMMMM, they both work now.

I hate to say it but I will be taking the instrument cluster out of the car and the glove box to find and fix the 2 BIG circut wires on the back of the fuse block, the dash lights that don't work, the wipers and the blower motor. I am thinking the 2 wires were for the AC and the blower motor. This is an AC Car but the parts have been removed.

The car will NOT be moving until I fix all these issues. :banghead:
 
Take your time and check it out like you are planning...sounds like a disaster waiting to happen with all those wires not hooked up or in wrong spots
 
mshred said:
Take your time and check it out like you are planning...sounds like a disaster waiting to happen with all those wires not hooked up or in wrong spots
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Oh believe me I am taking my time. Like today I worked on it for at least 5 hours just figuring out where all the problems are.

Forgot to mention the Horn does not work either. I put 12V to the horn under the hood and they work fine..... Scared the **** out of me..... Lol!
I also took off the Grant Steering Wheel to look at the ground. I ground that wire and no horn so that is one more thing I gotta fix!
 
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