Ignition Lock (Replacing)

-

LJS30

Well-Known Member
Joined
Apr 9, 2007
Messages
1,053
Reaction score
5
Location
Hemet, California
Okay guys can anyone give me some steps for replacing the ignition lock on my 74 Dodge Dart without tilt? Even the master manual I bought doesn't have some clear directions for this repair.
 
I just had my column all apart down past the ignition lock to the shift lever. Just finished it today. PM me with an email and I'll scan and send you the pages from the factory manual. It's not hard at all if you follow the instructions step by step on the way down and then back up. It's very detailed and covered everything clearly. I don't have the special tools listed but adapted what I have where needed.
 
Search for a post here with excellent photos. It re-surfaced in the last month.
 
You know guys let me describe what happened so I can get some further input. My ignition lock cylinder is definitely loose so it needs replacing. But this all came about when turning my car on last week and it got stuck "starting". No matter how I turned the key back it just kept turning over. So I ran out of the car, grabbed a wrench, and got the negative cable off before I burned the starter motor. Input?
 
Theres a little arm that pops out when you turn the lock cylinder which i think activates the switch for the starter. or at least that is how it is with the push button release style lock cylinder.
 
Support the end of the shaft with a 2x4 cut to length to the floor. Remove the retaining ring and tap out the roll pin with a punch. Harbor Freight has a nice little pouch of several sizes of punches I have used for years. It takes a little bit of effort to first get it moving but then it will move easier.

To put it back in I used a large channel locks with the jaws taped up well with tape. If you put a very slight taper with a grinder on the end of the pin going in first it will start easier. Start with the jaws wide and then adjust them down as the pin moves back in.
 
Well gentlemen all that and the issue is still present. I got everything back together, went to re-connect the negative on the cable and though the key was off the starter wanted to turn. Now would I go solenoid?
 
check all your wiring before spending anymore money. may have a couple wires melted together somewhere..

also check and recheck all your grounds..
 
starter bendix may just be engaged. May try to turn engine backwards by hand and let it disengage
 
I would begin by checking the terminal on the starter relay going to the solenoid and see if it is already energized when you connect the battery. Take the wire off, connect the battery and check for power off it. Also see if the starter begins turning when it's disconnected.

If that terminal is always energized check the starter relay and see if it's bad. If it checks out then start backing up.

With a wiring diagram begin with the wiring at the column. Unplug the connector at the base under the dash and check the continuity of the ignition switch positions. If everything checks out you know the switch and column wiring are OK.

Next just as a matter of caution look all around under the dash like abj said and look for any wires melted together or any that looked burnt or deformed. Pay special attention to the primary wires coming through the bulkhead connector running to the ammeter. This is something you should do regardless. Make sure that the bulkhead connector is not melted or deformed. Years of corrosion from being exposed to the elements can cause resistance and heat to build on the spade connectors and cause them to melt together.

If wires are wrapped in black it will usually melt right through it if you have a melt down. You're trying to determine if you have wires backfeeding power to a component.

Follow the wires on the diagram to the starter relay, disconnect them and again check them with the ignition switch and see if they are getting energized when they are supposed to and de-energized when the are supposed to. This will eliminate problems in the wiring between the relay and the column.

Here's some examples of burnt wiring from my son's B-body and also from the donor car that came with it. In the case of his car, the red to the ammeter melted to the dash and dome light wiring allowing them to backfeed and run all the time. Not saying this is your problem but it is worth inspecting your wiring. Old Mopars are notorious for this and catching before you have a complete meltdown is better than the alternative.

View attachment wire clump.jpg

View attachment BHC wiring.jpg

View attachment clump detail.jpg

View attachment donor wiring.jpg

View attachment fused.jpg
 
Well it turned out to be the solenoid/relay that was only about five months old. Can you believe this!?!?!?
 
-
Back
Top