340 compression ratio

I got alot on my mind and i got alot of thoughts here, so i appreciate all of your help where ever you may help, haha i am learning!Ok guys this is what I came up with so far. I decided to go ahead and pull the intake manifold and the heads just so I could see what I am working with.
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Rocky - I took a picture of that casting number on the block, left side just under the cylinder head. 2780930-340-7
I also took a picture of the harmonic balance on the crank shaft, I had to take off the pulley But I don’t see any castings that say cast crank only.
The only numbers on the top of pistons are “30”. I took some pictures of them.
As far as I can tell using a basic caliper, it is 3.300” stroke, 4.070” bore.
Right now I have the right side head off only. So I went to top dead center on the balancer meter. And piston six was right at the top of the deck, then I went to bottom dead center and that same piston seemed to be at the bottom. These pistons look dished? What do you call this type of piston. Im guessing they are forged pistons, not cast.
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I measured the valves they are 2.02 and 1.60. I noticed that it doesn’t have roller rockers, they are just flat, since I am in here shouldn’t I put on some roller rockers? Is it a direct replacement or what do you have to do? They are supposed to increase horsepower?
It seems like the head intake and the intake manifold have been what do you call it? Ported? They seem very smooth and seem to match up really good.
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That is another question I have is there is a gap between the head and the intake manifold, I think it is a coolant cavity that isn’t utilized by the heads and the intake manifold, I took some pictures of it. There is coolant cavity and a intake exhaust port that is in the head but Is blocked off by the intake manifold. What are those for and why is one just open the atmosphere? It’s a victor 340 aluminum intake, part number EDE2915
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Rick – The transmission I have has a stamp “A-904-LA” on the bell housing. Also the part number that is stamped into the side of the oil pan flange is PK_ _ _ 10834276 7864. So I think this is a A-904 torqueflite. I don’t know what torque converter I have in there, or the stall speed, how do I find out? I don’t know what ring gear I have either? I could count the teeth to find out? He also doesn’t have the factory shifter any more…it’s a cable T handle shifter system, after market. I remember last time I had it racing, I would shift 2 to 3 and it would take a second for it to engage. Im going to have to do some research on the transmission and see if there is some adjustments I can make on shifter linkage cable. He doesn’t have the dust cover either…where can I get one? I need to get a compression tester and a vacuum gauge, whats a good brand and where should i get them?
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Mark – thanks for getting me that information. I am going to order that cc kit, and some of those books and try to figure it out. I really appreciate your help on that! I will keep you updated on how it goes.
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The carb I have is actually a 4150 r4779-6 double pumper. I think that means it’s a 750 cfm I got a renew kit they are calling it a “Trick kit” but I want to basically go through the whole carb and clean it and put all new seals in it.
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I got new spark plugs, what should my spark gap be? I marked my position of my distributor before I took it out…but what if you forgot to mark it, and then you rotated the engine. How do you know where to put? I have the firing order marked on the engine and each plug labeled and the cap labeled.
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It looks like he was running a factory stock starter on this thing, might be why it broke? I got a protorque starter from summit racing for 150, part number sum-820337
I also need to decide on what motor oil to run on this thing. And the proper oil capacity and oil level. He put on a oil pan part number MOR20710 273-400 10” DP with a ext oil pump pickup part number MOR24700. What oil do you suggest and how much with this oil pan? That way I can make sure the oil level mark on the dipstick is correct.
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It also has a hurst line lock for the front brakes, and it is leaking out of the bottom where the wires are, where can I find a replacement that will match up with my line configuration? I haven’t had much luck, I attached a picture.
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Another thing I had to do was take out the steering column to get the headers off and out of the way in order to pull the heads. I was thinking about finding a aftermarket steering column. This column has the original on the column gear shifter linkage and the steering shaft itself is big bulky and ugly, since he had to grind the crap out of it to clear the headers. Is there a basic racing steering column that would take up less room? I could also take the ignition switch, turn signals, hazard lights off and out of the steering column and put them on the dash so I have easier access to that stuff for troubleshooting. Im not too impressed with these hooker headers either, the mating/sealing surface is really rough, which im guessing is why they were leaking so bad, I got all new bolts and gaskets, I was going to try to use a belt sander to smooth out the header flanges to make them seal up better.
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I need to get some tools, where and what do you guys recommend for this stuff?;
Vacuum gauge, compression tester, inspection camera, measuring tools for mic ing motors like inside calipers, valve spring compressor, inch pounds torque wrench.
What is the best way to keep the cylinders/pistons clean when you’re cleaning the deck for the new head gaskets? I would hate for anything to get down around the piston rings. Also how does the piston get its oil for lubrication? Somehow it must get oil to keep the piston oiled from the rings down.
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I also really don’t like how he has the motor mounts on this thing, they don’t seem like they would be very strong, hes got like a 1 inch plate as a spacer in there and some bolts with washers that look like they will pull through. Is there a good brand of motor mounts that I could make work in this application, you would think there should be some factory motor mounts in there…but they look custom made.
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Radiator fan is just a little small fan, I was thinking about getting a dual electric fan for cooling. See picture. What do you guys think..this one doesn’t keep up.
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I feel like I am having the re invent the wheel here because I bought this thing when I was young and dumb, and I didn’t get any information from the guy so now im playing CSI on this thing figuring everything out.
i appreciate all your guys help!