Steering coupler question
And your solid coupler leaves absolutely no room for any body flex. Your steering box is bolted to the K frame. Your steering shaft is bolted to the dash by way of the steering column. Do you think the dash and the K frame always move perfectly in line with each other?
This is the most economical solution.
BUT, its not without issues. I know folks run these on their cars just like this. But, my .02. That hole needs to be precise, ie, not drilled with a hand drill, and probably not even drilled on a press. Especially for a pin fit, that needs to be an interference fit. For a bolt, maybe a little less so if you thread the steering shaft. But, you may still get wear at the bolt/pin.
It also doesn't address body flex at the coupler, which is why the stock coupler slides up and down. I don't think that's a big deal, because there really isn't much of an angle there. But it could definitely wear the steering u joint, or the steering box, faster than it would with a sliding joint.
And your solid coupler leaves absolutely no room for any body flex. Your steering box is bolted to the K frame. Your steering shaft is bolted to the dash by way of the steering column. Do you think the dash and the K frame always move perfectly in line with each other?
This is the most economical solution.
BUT, its not without issues. I know folks run these on their cars just like this. But, my .02. That hole needs to be precise, ie, not drilled with a hand drill, and probably not even drilled on a press. Especially for a pin fit, that needs to be an interference fit. For a bolt, maybe a little less so if you thread the steering shaft. But, you may still get wear at the bolt/pin.
It also doesn't address body flex at the coupler, which is why the stock coupler slides up and down. I don't think that's a big deal, because there really isn't much of an angle there. But it could definitely wear the steering u joint, or the steering box, faster than it would with a sliding joint.
