Breathing new life into the 318 in the Scamp!
So, the valves came in and look quality. Nothing fancy, just stock replacements, but they are stainless and stock dimension stem and got rid of some small amount of slop in the guides. Nice and clean. The exhausts have a narrowed stem at the head, just below the guide for flow. I'm glad that I went with these, as I think the stainless seat will last longer in service, than the originals.
I've been cleaning the heads up and everything seems to look good, with the exception of one broken stud that didn't fish out with an extractor. I drilled it through to the coolant passage and I'll have to zip it with a helicoil with a new stud. No biggie. I pulled the other studs to put new, unbent ones in before I started prepping them for glass beading in my cabinet. I pressure washed them after scraping lots of grease and blew them dry with a long reach tip.
For the top, I have no reason to hit the rocker area directly, so I used tight masking tape on the tops of the guides to keep it out on that side and cut sections of hose with short bolts for the rocker shaft pedistols, to keep the threads and oil passage covered tightly. -
The combustion side got 3/8 bolts with teflon tape pushed in by hand to seal the guide. All of the oil passages were also blocked. -
After blasting the heads, I cleaned them with compressed air after rotating them several times to get junk out of the water jackets and then cleaned them with solivent and more compressed air. Now they are ready for lapping and spring install.
These valves came with 2 and 4 groove retainers, so I had mismatched retainers for the new valves. I found a source online that had them for $7, but I only need half of the retainers for the exhaust valves. So if anyone needs a set of 8 4 groove retainers, I can send them an unbirthday present.
Even though I'm not afraid of the stock replacement fuel pump that went in two fall seasons ago, I decided that a regulator would eliminate guess work in tuning this thing.
I had the idea that I was going to mount the gauge near the carb, but I didn't want to use compression fittings and I couldn't find a 5/16" inverted flare T fitting with the 1/8" npt locally. So, I ended up using an elbow and mounted it on the other outlet of the regulator, which will sit on the body of the car and have less vibration.
The down side to this is that I'll need two flex lines, to and from the fuel pump on the engine, but I'll get pictures of the entire setup as it goes on. I rerouted the fuel line away from the water pump and gave more room for the heater hoses. I was having trouble with the heater hoses vapor locking the carb, last summer and I'd like to avoid that from happening again.
I am shooting to have this swap on the car this weekend. It's supposed to be nice out, so we'll see how the rest of the head work goes and go from there!
So, the valves came in and look quality. Nothing fancy, just stock replacements, but they are stainless and stock dimension stem and got rid of some small amount of slop in the guides. Nice and clean. The exhausts have a narrowed stem at the head, just below the guide for flow. I'm glad that I went with these, as I think the stainless seat will last longer in service, than the originals.
I've been cleaning the heads up and everything seems to look good, with the exception of one broken stud that didn't fish out with an extractor. I drilled it through to the coolant passage and I'll have to zip it with a helicoil with a new stud. No biggie. I pulled the other studs to put new, unbent ones in before I started prepping them for glass beading in my cabinet. I pressure washed them after scraping lots of grease and blew them dry with a long reach tip.
For the top, I have no reason to hit the rocker area directly, so I used tight masking tape on the tops of the guides to keep it out on that side and cut sections of hose with short bolts for the rocker shaft pedistols, to keep the threads and oil passage covered tightly. -
The combustion side got 3/8 bolts with teflon tape pushed in by hand to seal the guide. All of the oil passages were also blocked. -
After blasting the heads, I cleaned them with compressed air after rotating them several times to get junk out of the water jackets and then cleaned them with solivent and more compressed air. Now they are ready for lapping and spring install.
These valves came with 2 and 4 groove retainers, so I had mismatched retainers for the new valves. I found a source online that had them for $7, but I only need half of the retainers for the exhaust valves. So if anyone needs a set of 8 4 groove retainers, I can send them an unbirthday present.
Even though I'm not afraid of the stock replacement fuel pump that went in two fall seasons ago, I decided that a regulator would eliminate guess work in tuning this thing.
I had the idea that I was going to mount the gauge near the carb, but I didn't want to use compression fittings and I couldn't find a 5/16" inverted flare T fitting with the 1/8" npt locally. So, I ended up using an elbow and mounted it on the other outlet of the regulator, which will sit on the body of the car and have less vibration.
The down side to this is that I'll need two flex lines, to and from the fuel pump on the engine, but I'll get pictures of the entire setup as it goes on. I rerouted the fuel line away from the water pump and gave more room for the heater hoses. I was having trouble with the heater hoses vapor locking the carb, last summer and I'd like to avoid that from happening again.
I am shooting to have this swap on the car this weekend. It's supposed to be nice out, so we'll see how the rest of the head work goes and go from there!
