Breathing new life into the 318 in the Scamp!
Some prefer Jesus. Abodybomber is my homeboy.
I'm down! One of the coolest things about being a member of this forum is seeing the different combinations play out without actually having to spend all of the time and money changing everything up in your own garage.
Fixed the broken pic links above. Added some.
Afer I blasted, unmasked and chemically cleaned the heads, I discovered some silica soot on the metal that came up with my finger, so I'm going to pressure wash them and air dry them again, before I lap the valves and install everything.
There were some areas in the runners where the castings were joined that were kind of ugly, so I went through the runners with a carbide bit and cleaned up some of the odd casting areas and got rid of burrs at the ports.
I'm debating on gasket matching the intake and head ports on a 318 port, just to be sure that they are squared up. I noticed that the production casting on both the LD4B and these heads aren't perfectly true and if nothing else it might get rid of some of the garbage areas in the radius of the corners? I may check the gaskets against them at the very least to see how off they are.
The exhaust air ports needed to be blocked, so I marked a bit with masking tape for a depth check after running a smaller bit all the way through and ran 1/4" 20 set screws into the head, with some high temp thread lock.
I taped the tap that I used as well, so that I had a nice bottom on the thread for the set screw to bind on.
The guy at my old house was nice enough to call me and let me know that my box of parts from Summit showed at his place, so I picked them up and installed some Comp Cams hex head jets into the secondaries to match the hex head jets on the primary. They were actually cheaper than the replacement Holley jets that this called for and I was able to get them in .001" increments.
Since I'm at 5400 and had 6000ft jetting in the primary, I went 5000ft at .075" from .080" sea level on the secondary to put it right in the middle when I get 1/3 throttle or more. I figured that running it a hair lean under cruise is ok.
I've also decided to go with a clutch fan on the car, because it is running a touch colder than it should with a 195 thermostat and the aluminum radiator I put in it. I also want it to warm up quicker than it does.
My friend parted out a dish washer at his old work, so I'm going to cut some stainless from it to make a new heat stove on my english wheel and bead roller that will work with my 360 truck exhaust manifolds and clear the power steering. The stock truck manifold heat stove won't work, because the mounting ridge is at the bottom and I don't have access to it, so I'll just make another one out of something that will look nice and not rust, that will bolt on to the manifold differently.
I've also decided that since I'm running a close clearance on those manifolds to the power steering box, that I'm also going to run a factory power steering cooler that I have.
I'll get pics that stuff as it develops on the car.
Some prefer Jesus. Abodybomber is my homeboy.
I'm down! One of the coolest things about being a member of this forum is seeing the different combinations play out without actually having to spend all of the time and money changing everything up in your own garage.
Fixed the broken pic links above. Added some.
Afer I blasted, unmasked and chemically cleaned the heads, I discovered some silica soot on the metal that came up with my finger, so I'm going to pressure wash them and air dry them again, before I lap the valves and install everything.
There were some areas in the runners where the castings were joined that were kind of ugly, so I went through the runners with a carbide bit and cleaned up some of the odd casting areas and got rid of burrs at the ports.
I'm debating on gasket matching the intake and head ports on a 318 port, just to be sure that they are squared up. I noticed that the production casting on both the LD4B and these heads aren't perfectly true and if nothing else it might get rid of some of the garbage areas in the radius of the corners? I may check the gaskets against them at the very least to see how off they are.
The exhaust air ports needed to be blocked, so I marked a bit with masking tape for a depth check after running a smaller bit all the way through and ran 1/4" 20 set screws into the head, with some high temp thread lock.
I taped the tap that I used as well, so that I had a nice bottom on the thread for the set screw to bind on.
The guy at my old house was nice enough to call me and let me know that my box of parts from Summit showed at his place, so I picked them up and installed some Comp Cams hex head jets into the secondaries to match the hex head jets on the primary. They were actually cheaper than the replacement Holley jets that this called for and I was able to get them in .001" increments.
Since I'm at 5400 and had 6000ft jetting in the primary, I went 5000ft at .075" from .080" sea level on the secondary to put it right in the middle when I get 1/3 throttle or more. I figured that running it a hair lean under cruise is ok.
I've also decided to go with a clutch fan on the car, because it is running a touch colder than it should with a 195 thermostat and the aluminum radiator I put in it. I also want it to warm up quicker than it does.
My friend parted out a dish washer at his old work, so I'm going to cut some stainless from it to make a new heat stove on my english wheel and bead roller that will work with my 360 truck exhaust manifolds and clear the power steering. The stock truck manifold heat stove won't work, because the mounting ridge is at the bottom and I don't have access to it, so I'll just make another one out of something that will look nice and not rust, that will bolt on to the manifold differently.
I've also decided that since I'm running a close clearance on those manifolds to the power steering box, that I'm also going to run a factory power steering cooler that I have.
I'll get pics that stuff as it develops on the car.