tuning

I'd do what is suggested above. When messing with dist, do all initial set ups without vac. adv.

The initial timing is set by determining the point at which the rpms continue to increase and then drop off while at idle. Disconnect and plug the vac adv line on the carb. Check and increase the timing by bumping up a few degrees at a time until it noses over and then back off a few degrees, that should be your base line. And as mentioned above, it is going to fall into the 14-20 * range. Set the timing at the new position and bolt it down.

From there, recurving the mechanical advance to get the best response from the engine is whats needed. You need to limit the mechanical advance. You have to figure out where you are first. Run the engine in park or neutral and increase the rpm, while checking the timing, continue to inc rpm until the timing maxes out, record the reading. That is your total - initial plus mechanical adv timing, this needs to be limited to around 34*. I'd go to the manufacturer and look at their tuning info on how to adjust this.

For changing the mechanical advance rate, what kind of curve is determined by trial and error, too many variables to give a formulated reply - vehicle weight, axle ratio, auto vs manual trans etc etc. Look at the dist manufacturers site and see if they offer parts to change the curve. Something faster than stock adv is what is needed. Changing the springs inside the distibutor or changing the adv weights will be whats needed. Trial and error again, change one thing at a time and evaluate by driving it.

After that, hook up the vac adv., and drive it under different conditions noting any spark knock. Usually you can adjust these using an allen key that fits into the vac port of the canister. My guess is you wont need to - with a pretty stock set up like you have.

For the carb, its going to be trial and error again, determined by driving it. Knowing what the base line set up is for the carb is important. Write down the baseline info, like: jet size, metering rod number, shooter size. This way you can always revert back to the baseline if the motor's tuning goes out of whack. Change one thing at a time and test drive it.

Start by installing a larger accel pump shooter to see if it increases the response, you can also move the pump arm to different positions to change the rate at which the shot is delivered. Usually the hole closest to the fulcrum is the right position. If you are using headers, you might want to look at increasing the primary jets by one size, alternatively you can adjust this by changing the metering rods to a smaller diameter.

The whole process is trial and error, there are no set parameters except for the total timing limitation.

Good luck with it.