paint problem

Just finished painting the car paint all mixed the same some areas look like they have a matt finish and others are fine with glossy look this was a solid color single stage paint any ideas.
I tried a small amount of rubbing compound rubbed it lightly the finish did not change.

Might have gotten a little too light on the paint application in area's.

shot the car with 3 coats what would balance this out. Would a clay bar help on this the paint is heavily laid down.

any painters with advice on this problem really need some advice

When you paint you have to have a 50% overlap when spraying, Sounds like your overlap was off. Not enough coverage. Sand it down and reshoot it.

I shot the whole car 3 times it was the last coat that made the finish look this way .I waited a day before the last coat was applied so I could fix a run that was there then resprayed the whole car again what did I do wrong

That's what we call "dry" paint... When it's supposed to be glossy but came out matte... It means you did not get enough material on the areas. Wet-sand with a block and 600 and reshoot. Other than that, you could try wet-blocking with 1500 and buffing if it's the third coat and the other two were fine, but you may end up with a wavy body job (where the reflection distorts because the panel is not straight)

Also, how much of the car are you doing at a time? I'm guessing you're trying to shoot the whole thing (fenders to quarters) at a time.... Pull the panels and shoot each panel, then the shell. That way, you have much less area to cover at a time.

The two extremes are runs and dry spots; If you're getting both, then I think the culprit would be your technique... Try to keep a rhythm, and keep the paint gun squared-off with the panel. Try to be like the robot arm that paints cars on the assembly line (straight-on with the panel at all times)... When you flick your wrist or curve the tip away from the panel, you speed up (or slow down, depending on which direction you flicked it) the rate of the material hitting the panel and this will result in dry spots or runs. Also, take a trash can or piece of cardboard or scrap or -something- in the booth with you to fine-tune your pattern, material, and pressure before spraying. Also, don't forget to overlap... Also also, I'd turn the material down just a hair if you're getting runs. Still, I think your gun is dialed in pretty well, it's just the technique you need to work on...

4404spd said:

When you paint you have to have a 50% overlap when spraying

Click to expand...

I usually only overlap about 30% at the most, but I also shotgun the paint on with the material knob wide open, and move at the speed of sound... Working in a huge, busy, production-oriented body shop for a few years teaches you how to kick-out a glassy paintjob in no time flat. ;) Still, if I wanted a -good- paintjob, I'd overlap 40-50%


- CK

You can't let a car sit for a day and shoot 1 coat of paint on it the next day...The paint has locked up by then. Did you sand the whole car again? If not your going to have more problems than just dry looking paint.

ceekay said:

That's what we call "dry" paint... When it's supposed to be glossy but came out matte... It means you did not get enough material on the areas. Wet-sand with a block and 600 and reshoot. Other than that, you could try wet-blocking with 1500 and buffing if it's the third coat and the other two were fine, but you may end up with a wavy body job (where the reflection distorts because the panel is not straight)

Also, how much of the car are you doing at a time? I'm guessing you're trying to shoot the whole thing (fenders to quarters) at a time.... Pull the panels and shoot each panel, then the shell. That way, you have much less area to cover at a time.

The two extremes are runs and dry spots; If you're getting both, then I think the culprit would be your technique... Try to keep a rhythm, and keep the paint gun squared-off with the panel. Try to be like the robot arm that paints cars on the assembly line (straight-on with the panel at all times)... When you flick your wrist or curve the tip away from the panel, you speed up the rate of the material hitting the panel and this will result in dry spots. Also, take a trash can or piece of cardboard or scrap or -something- in the booth with you to fine-tune your pattern, material, and pressure before spraying. Also, don't forget to overlap... Also also, I'd turn the material down just a hair if you're getting runs...

I usually only overlap about 30% at the most, but I also shotgun the paint on with the material knob wide open, and move at the speed of sound... Working in a huge, busy, production-oriented body shop for a few years teaches you how to kick-out a glassy paintjob in no time flat. ;)


- CK

Click to expand...

As a rule thats whats recommened, I probably am more in the ball park as you at 30%

Well I tried some turtle wax rubbing compound on my buffer it is blending the paint to one shade. I know it is not the best as it seems to be very coarse and is leaving swirlls.
Any suggestions on a good rubbing compound. It is leaving the paint a little dull in finish.
My question would you use rubbing compound then swirll remover then wax or glaze as long as the compound blends out the dry spots.
And Thank you all for the info has been almost a year long project and feels like I am closing in on the finish line

Single stage paint I believe needs to sit and cure before trying to sand or work it.

Had a challenger painted in the 80s and it was too cold and the metallic ran. Look so so, the guy sanded the next day to reshoot and it looked like crap with all the sand scratches.

Might need to give it some time to cure

WildCat said:

Single stage paint I believe needs to sit and cure before trying to sand or work it.

Had a challenger painted in the 80s and it was too cold and the metallic ran. Look so so, the guy sanded the next day to reshoot and it looked like crap with all the sand scratches.

Might need to give it some time to cure

Click to expand...

If its urethane it can be top coated the next day IF you do the proper stages to retop coat it.

This was done with urethane, After wet sanding small area found some orange peel so will sand then buff to get it right. any recomendations on what grit paper to start with

your paint was half dry before it hit the panel. air/paint ratio was off, need more material. don't waste your time trying to buff, it will never match the gloss areas.
sand and recoat.

Didn't you go with a metallic on this? You can't wet-sand or buff a single stage metallic.

I also wanted to add that by the time you sand and buff this car with only 3 coats of paint on it thier is not going to be enough paint left on it and your going to go through it and it will probably peel in time. I really would recommened repainting the car just bite the bullet and buy more paint and spend the time and do it right.