340 Not firing on all cylinders

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10V should be good at the coil. Maybe the reluctor gap is wrong now or the center button under the distributor cap fell out? Did you take off the rotor and forget to put it back on?
 
are the wires to the ignition module properly connected to the distributor? Sounds like it could be something 68gtxman mentioned, maybe the reluctor gap is too large or the contact points in the cap might have broken off, unless you forgot to put the rotor back in LOL

Do you have a timing light? If so, you can hook it up to any plug wire and see if it flashes when you try to start it, easier then grounding out a spark plug :)
 
My day just keeps getting better....
We'll, I do have a timing light but apparently it is pooched! I even put it on my Honda and nada....

I believe my issue is the electronic ignition. Anyone have a schematic for the magic orange box?? Can I rule out the coil by plugging a plug directly to the out put and grounding it while cranking?

Most of my wiring is a total hack job so none of the colour codes match and many of the connections are questionable. I am dreading the thought of rewiring everything but in order to properly trouble shoot it I might just have to....

Oh and yes I put the rotor back on....lol
 
You have a 2 terminal resistor/ 4 terminal box?

"Run" at bottom right represents your original "ignition run" or IGN1 wire, traditionally blue, but different color in later years

"Run" is hot ONLY in run and goes "cold" in start, so no power from that line during cranking

"Start" at top right represents the brown "bypass" circuit or IGN2. This is hot ONLY in start, and is the ONLY source of power in starting

Wiggle and push / pull the connectors at ballast, distributor, and ECU alll to scrub the terminals clean and feel for tightness.

Check the reluctor gap with a brass feeler for .008", that's inches not metric. Inspect the reluctor/ pickup for strike damage and debri, rust, junk, and feel for shaft side play Hook your mulimeter to the two distributor terminals on low AC volts and crank the engine. The distributor should generate about 1 volt AC

Make ABSOLUTELY certain that the box is grounded. Scrape the box ears clean, and around the bolt holes on the firewall, and use star washers.

If you have not, try 2 clip leads---use one to bypass the ballast resistor, and use the other to hook 12V directly to the coil + terminal. Do not leave it hooked up for more than long enough to test, and watch the coil for heating.

Check coil voltage WITHOUT the coil wire. Instead, use a grounded probe such as a clip lead and screwdriver, held near the top of the coil HV tower.
 

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Thanks to everyone for not burning me for my lack of knowledge!!

ok 67 Dart, I have a few pics now. Your line drawing looks correct (although I will take some readings tomorrow morning and confirm. I think you might even be able to tell from the pics the quality of the existing wiring....lol (what you can't see is the redneck engineered oil container currently acting as the coolant reservoir!)

Due to some "extra" broken/cut wires it makes figuring out what is really supposed to be open a bit of a challenge! Gotta love PO's...

Dennis
 

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Check to see what voltage you have at the + side of the coil when cranking
My dads old power wagon sometimes will not send voltage from the key to the hot start on the coil.
Just something to check.
 
Wow,
I just seen the pic's of the wiring.
I would check evey connection, and move the ecm from one of the hottest's places in the engine compartment.
 
I can't tell what's going on at the ballast resistor, but that white wire connected to the left side doesn't "look good" from here
 
It did run before, (only on 6 cylinders) didn't it? Wiring looks like a challenge, but I would start to inspect the area where you've moved stuff around (distributor) check for loose hanging wires or broken connections. Are you sure you put the ballast resistor wire (the iffy white one on the picture) back on the coil plus side?

First I would bypass the ballast resistor like 67Dart273 suggested, just alligator clip a wire connecting the two terminals together, only do this for a short test, don't leave it on there for 5 minutes LOL, If it starts, you'll know there is a ballast resistor issue.

the brown wire that's coming from the ballast resistor, is that other end not connected to anything? (see picture)
 

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Not tryin' to make fun of the OP, not at all, but this is a good example of how you can't expect 40 year old wiring to run and run and .....................run...............and............run....................
 
Not tryin' to make fun of the OP, not at all, but this is a good example of how you can't expect 40 year old wiring to run and run and .....................run...............and............run....................

Its amazing what happens to some of these cars over the 40+ years of life.. you should of seen the rats nest that was made out of my underhood wiring harness that I had to go through and fix right (I wont even get started about the under dash harness) ... Sometimes I believe people dont realize the potential for car fires... lol (to be clear, I am not referring to the OP here.. just some people in general)
 
I bet the ignition box is having a hell of a time getting a decent ground through the 3 layers of black spray bomb
 
Don't worry I have thick skin! Lol

I assure you the wiring was not done by me. Not sure where in it's life it was done but considering the car was originally a blue /6 I would guess there have been some creative mods! Oh and as for the under dash wiring it is far worse!
 
I will get started testing and tracing wires tonight....I also need to pick up a new timing light.

I nearly mentioned this earlier. Pull your bulkhead connector apart, inspect, and push/ pull it back together a few times to scrub the terminals Read this article. Even if you don't perform this modification, the article points out the troubles with the bulkhead connector:

http://www.madelectrical.com/electricaltech/amp-gauges.shtml
 
will do 67 Dart...I think you have already helped me greatly!!

Ok so I had a quick look tracing the 5 wires that come from the ECU. I think I atleast found one problem!! I actually have 2 cut wires. The green as described in your diagram and also what you list as the black wire (in my case black/green). It does NOT go to the negative side of the coil.

The ONLY wire connected to the - side of the coil is a green wire that goes back to the ignition. The really weird part though is that it doesn't appear to ever had anything else connected to it (atleast no sign of a broken wire)! The + side of the coil has a white wire that goes back to the resistor. From there it is T'd to a brown wire that disappears into another part of the harness.

Oh and I checked the resistor and am getting about .9 ohms (is that within spec?) Also checked the ECU for ground and I think it is ok there as when I removed it the firewall was cleared of paint behind it.

So, here is my question...at the coil, should there be more than 1 wire to each side? If not, why is there that green wire on the - side going to the ignition?? Should I go ahead and run a jumper from the -side of the coil to that black/green wire and "just see what happens"?? lol...

By the way, anyone in the east of Toronto area that would like to rewire my car just speak up! lol!!!
 
Not being able to see what you have in detail, it's difficult to guess, but refer back to the diagram.

The neg side of the coil should only have 1 wire, unless you have a tach, and if so, the tach wire hooks there as well

The POS side of the coil MAY have the ballast bypass hooked there. Once again look at the diagram. ORIGINALLY the brown bypass wire coming out of the bulkhead connector hooked to the coil + side of the ballast resistor, so that is the "same thing" as the plus side of the coil.
 
Ok so I think you just hit the nail on the head!! I do have a tach and likely the green wire goes there and not into the ignition as I had assumed...

So, I think I will jump the wire from the ECU to the - side of the coil (as in the diagram).

If I don't set myself on fire I will post results in a few!!
 
IT'S ALIVE!!! It runs like shite, but IT"S ALIVE!! Thanks guys!!!

Now I need to get a working timing light and see if I can get the timing anywhere remotely close....

Oh and no fire! but lots of smoke....I'm guessing the timing isn't helipng
 
I will do girls from 18 to 43 but not 65 to 72. Auto shop teacher taught me that rhyme 40 years ago and it stuck. Great way to remember firing order.
 
I will do girls from 18 to 43 but not 65 to 72. Auto shop teacher taught me that rhyme 40 years ago and it stuck. Great way to remember firing order.

Yup I use to say that,until I'm now pushing 60! Great work you guys helping him figure out his problem. Ain't this place GREAT!!!!
 
perfect, glad to hear she is purring like a kitten with pneumonia LOL, before you go out and buy a shitty dial-back timing light from canadian tire, have a look on kijiji for a old second hand static timing light. Way more reliable, just degree the dampener and never look back :)

Here's a nice kit for $10 (too bad it's all the way near windsor)
http://ontario.kijiji.ca/c-cars-veh...Inductive-timing-light-kit-W0QQAdIdZ472903968
 
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