318 just started knocking???

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Golden Scamp

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I am trying to sell my '71 Scamp, which is and has been a very solid, strong running 318 car. Took it out to run some errands the other day, parked it, and when I started it the next morning to move it, there is a knocking coming from what seems like the drivers side. Hard to tell, but noticed some brown water spitting out of tailpipe, too. Friend said start with checking tightness of torque converter, then move on to heads, but wanted to pose the question to all of you. Need to get it diagnosed quick as weather is getting warmer and need to get it out to the shows to get some exposure. Thanks ahead of time for your suggestions.:prayer:
 
I would start by looking at your fluids. Look in the radiator for discoloration, check your oil, is it over full? How much water came out of the tailpipe?

I would not run it too much until you diagnose it.
 
did you try letting it warm up? it might go away once its warmed up. also how does the oil look?
 
run your car with full radiator let it warm up and watch to see if it bubbles, lots of bubbles are a sign of head gasket problems but if the water runs smooth you are probably ok on that front.
 
Haven't run it until warm yet. Not much water came out, maybe a tablespoon or two, but it only ran for a few minutes. Oil looks good, but have been burning it up lately. I'm putting a quart in every 50-100 miles. Replaced valve cover gaskets months ago to stop small leak but still leak small amount after driven from rear of motor. Will check plugs tonight and perform radiator test. This is all new stuff, as this car has been very strong before this.
 
I recently had a 318 that started spitting water into the crankcase. I thought it was the head gasket but it turned out to be a tiny pinhole behind the water pump. I ended up changing the timing chain cover and water pump to fix the problem.
 
sounds like your rear main seal is going. also if its still making the noise when warmed up
pop off the drivers valve cover and check the torque of the rocker arm assembly. also i
should add the water in the exhaust might be a condensation build up in the engine or in
the exhaust itself. im rocking the original 273 in my satellite and it builds up a little also.
 
All good suggestions. I'm going to get out tonight in the snow and look things over. Will update soon. Thanks
 
Andyzell,
how many lb-ft do rocker arm studs need to be torqued? I found 30lb online and snapped front driver side bolt off in head!!! My torque wrench was made in China. Two broken drill bits drilled out plus bolt after easy-out didnt work. Instead of finding problem, Im creating them.
 
driver side plugs look a little dirty, number 7 cylinder was the worst. Plugs less than 500 miles old. Dead in water until I tap out rocker stud. Never done this. Is it a simple thing to do, and how difficult is it going to be to replace my broken stud?
 
30 ft lbs... god no... Where did you find that fine piece of misinformation?

17-18ft/lb is about right. I think the book call for 200inch/pounds so divide 200by 12 and you get your answer in ft/lbs.
 
Remove the drive belts, see if noise goes away.

Friends rebuilt an engine, even after this was suggested. Put it back together and same rod knock. Clutch fan bolts were loose. Spent a bunch of unnecessary money!
 
Crap! I'm lucky I didnt break more of them off. Ok, so ive drilled out the broken bolt. Am I going to be able to tap the hole and use a stock size bolt to replace what has happened?
 
driver side plugs look a little dirty, number 7 cylinder was the worst. Plugs less than 500 miles old. Dead in water until I tap out rocker stud. Never done this. Is it a simple thing to do, and how difficult is it going to be to replace my broken stud?

sorry to hear about your predicament and also sorry for not
specifying the torque specs for the studs.

broken bolts :banghead:
 
Yeah, these small block studs look like basic bolts that hold down the brackets that in turn hold down the shaft. Nothing like any rocker studs I see for sale online. Will any 1/2 bolt of that length do the trick? I haven't checked rock auto, but Ive gotten the wrong thing from them occasionally, too.
 
MP has the stock replacements for a bundle. $90 + ship. Ouch. It was 100% my bad for screwing that up. Did see 17lb on one site and 30 on another and just picked the higher one thinking tighter = better for internal parts. Live and learn. I just hope I didnt bore the hole out to big digging for that bolt to where it just wont work.
 
send me your address in a PM... I have a bunch of bolts.
 
Wow!.....Andy, I know you feel some sense of urgency, but please take your time to diagnose this issue. Not trying to be a peck3r head, but the rocker shaft bolts would have been one of the last places i'd have looked. I'm sure once you get that squared away, the issue will still be there.

The noise out of know where could be lots of things......A exhaust leak, loose/broken bolts front and rear of the engine, a bent pushrod, a lifter/cam going away, and even worse, a rod making noise? How was the oil pressure when this happened?

What i'm trying to say is, don't jump to conclusions, and take the advice here and methodically figure out what you've got.

Good Luck......That's a really nice Scamp you have.
 
I wish I would have seen this earlier.

I've done what you did more than once. The factory service manual for my '68 Charger calls for something horrendous on rocker shaft bolts, too.

Be sure you vacuum the daylights out of where you drilled. You are going to want to heli-coil it.

Also, most of those holes are solid, but I will warn you that one of them has an oil passage that feeds the rockers on it. If you took the shaft off, make certain that the orientation of the oil holes are correct and it is put back the same as it was removed, or you can have an oil starvation problem.

Which of the five bolts broke and on which cylinder bank? Both heads are the same, but it would be a good idea to let everyone here know, to determine that you don't have drill shavings going down an oil passage.

I don't torque the shafts. I can't stress that enough. I go hand tight on a typical 3/8" ratchet and follow the sequence and I have never broken anything since.

Typically, rocker shafts do not come loose, even under odd stress. You will see bent pushrods, stuck lifters and even trashed ones along with flattened cams, before you see a rocker shaft come loose.

If you are looking for a tic, pull both valve covers and remove the rocker shafts. keep the rockers on each shaft and just set them in their respective valve cover. It's best to leave the bolts and spacers under the bolts in their holes and just set them in the valve cover for that side.

Once you have the shafts and rockers off, lift one pushrod out at a time (you will feel a little vacuum from the oil in the lifter) and it will release by hand. Roll each pushrod on a flat glass surface and check each one for straightness. Replace the bent ones ($2 ea) and put the pushrods back into the engine. When you do, put oil on each one and when you feel like they are back in, spin it in place and it should feel nice and snug, like a pool cue in chalk. If not, grab a flashlight and look down the hole to see if it's sitting centered in the index.

Rocker shafts are way easier to put back on if you pre-assemble the shafts with bolts and spacers. If you hold them by the sides and use the valves/retainers to rotate the rocker arms into place, going back on, from how they want to hang upsideown, they rotate into place easily and the bolts drop into the rocker shaft pedistols.

If you find a bent pushrod, don't stop and only replace one. check all of them.
 
thought about doing this myself bonds! do u have to take the rocker shaft off i worked on a golf cart engine and removing the pushrods i could pull the rocker arm up and pull the rod out. could i not do the same one by one on my 318?
 
The plugs are oily, so where is this oil coming from and does this mean I have seals or rings that are not doing their job? Also, this knock is seems low in pitch, not like a tick form the valvetrain but more like a bump bump bump from lower in the motor.
 
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