Alterkation or HemiDenny
HAHA that is awesome! I really hope to see some of these road race cars actually road racing......
not exactly sure how to take your response....but I have always thought if the intended purpose is road racing...a beefed up stock rear steer set-up is superior. With tune-able (different length) balljoints and tubular uppers....camber/caster/ and the roll center are adjustable.
I'm no road racer...never claimed to be. that's is why I ask ..what you are looking for. Does my front end have the ability to "tune" those characteristics...absolutely.
Since it is raining out , let me bring up another point...
I get asked about alignment graphs/data, but what do the alignment graph tell you?
1) can the proper specs be achieved? most can do that even with the most Rub Goldberg configuration...do we need to show that??
2)how does the camber change thru suspension travel? I have shown ...not from graphs, but from pics that the camber change on my package thru travel is practically zero. Furthermore, for certain specific applications my package, like others including the factory, is "tuneable".
3) caster change......I build my uppers with bungs for adjustable poly-ends..or heim ends (your preference) to work with the factory cam adjusters. The caster is adjusted thru the upper control arm pivot points on the framerail....guess what?.. WE ALL USE THE SAME FACTORY PIVOT POINT unless you have installed a aftermarket front clip.
4) toe-in....here is the BIGGIE,...does the toe-in toe-out change thru suspension travel (the dreaded bumpsteer). ONLY if the lower control arm pivot point is in the correct location (with the other components utilized) can this be kept at the absolute minimum. Of course , there will be some minute movement, because the different length lower control arm and tie rod swing in slightly different arcs. I have always measured bumpsteer the old fashion way...with a guage mounted on the hub to make sure it doesn't move in and out thru the travel.
5) roll center...not in your basic alignment. There are two ways to change/adjust unless the factory upper control arm mounts/attachments are not used (different front clip). The lower control arm pivot point that is set to achieve alignment specs....which leaves the upper ball joint pivot point to change/adjust the angle of the upper control arm. This is adjustable with different length ball joints/ ball joint studs. Same as most.
so back to the important graphs/alignment ....what does it tell you?
can you align it?...and does it bumpsteer.
To satisfy, when time allows ...I will head to alignment shop with the "mule" (actual Duster front end) and a K-frame package.....So much for the land of low overhead, but the data is relevant and understandable after some of the "packages" I have seen out there.
In the weight comparision thread, G Machine Dart GT asked a great question ....what is it intended purpose for your parts?
I will answer it again here...It is a great hot-rod piece...it gets rid of the 40plus year old steering box and the factory rear steer linkage and replaces with a modern, compact, easily accessable rack and pinion. It replaces/removes the torsion bars with coilovers, and sheds appx 30 lbs dead weight off the nose. So, lets see...no torsion bars ...no steering box...30 lbs lighter...not limited to a small diameter tire .....integrated bump stops .....automotive tie rod ends....unaltered spindles....100% bolt-in with no welding or cutting on our A-bodies....Am I getting close???
and to the OPs question.....to re-cap....mine is a somewhat different coilover front end...specifically designed for the hot-rodder. For the road race SPECIFIC build, I would probably go another route...but that's just me
Mopar to ya'
Denny
fixed it for ya.....also forgot to mention my integrated bump stops....I do not like to use the shock on compression as a bump stop...or for rebound. For rebound, I prefer the factory bracket with an extended bumper to keep the shock from holding all the weight.
