Have YOU Run 5x100 and had Failure First Hand?

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whats funny is the adapters I bought a while back were listed as 5 x 100mm on ebag . they arrive at house and they were exactly dead nuts 5 x 4
 
mvh said:
Slightly off topic, I have noticed that some on-line parts houses have started showing all dimensions as metric; that is, they list 318cid as 5.2L, etc. ............... wheels, brake drums and hubs with dimensions converted to metric and rounded off, ........... mixed-dimension absurdities listed, like "9-inch brake drum for 5x100mm wheel", which is nonsense -- such a beast never existed.
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EXACTLY..........you have to know what you are dealing with for certain
 
Just talked with dealer on the Phone they sold out of their 1 st shipment of 16 & 17,s and looking at backorder only. They have 15 x 8 wheels coming in first but on back order. These are coming from Carid.com 163.00 ea. and they do come in 5 lug bolt pattern but only "0" offset now in the 8" wheels. I agree rmchrgr, inkjunkie that is why I ask these questions. It worked for me but was it safe? 383Duster MFG. Tolerance is subjective @ best overseas where MOST of this Stuff comes from. Oh by the way the wheel dealer said they will fit a 4" bolt pattern fine. but I still have safety in mind so I will keep looking till I am sure ...you can bet on that. Oklacarcollecto keep looking please that is what kind of constructive input I need to decide. THANKS ! Tim (DAD) :thumleft:
 
one mile said:
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not bad... kinda like the old minilites.

interesting thread... I myself would like to get to the bottom of this

If I could put 5x100's on my car that would open up my wheel options to thousands of possibilities....

I would assume if the backspacing was close and they were lug centric instead of hub centric you might be able to get away with it... But don't take that as advice, that's just my thinking, and I'm actually quite terrible with math...
 
I had a 1960 valiant-- used the 5 x100 mm wheel to roll around the yard, the wheel did not fit to the hub correctly-- but for rolling it worked fine, it was a factory type steel wheel from an unknown car.

since your buying new wheels ask the manufacturer they should have a correct answer.

Lawrence
 
My 64 Valiant had 5x100 steel wheels off some import on the rear when i bought it. I suspect they weren't on the front too because of the hub thing. I couldn't keep the lug nuts tight, they would loosen up over about a week or so of driving 45 miles a day. Not a problem for me who recognized what that funny vibration was but I got some of the right wheels on as quick as I could afford it.
 
Thanks Shane65, Yes they do look like the old Minilites and I was real pleased when she picked them out. Now if we can get to the bottom of this it would be great for quite a few people. Small "Updated" look on her Car if you know what I am saying. Thanks, Tim :thumleft:
 
cuda65vpt said:
My 64 Valiant had 5x100 steel wheels off some import on the rear when i bought it. I suspect they weren't on the front too because of the hub thing. I couldn't keep the lug nuts tight, they would loosen up over about a week or so of driving 45 miles a day. Not a problem for me who recognized what that funny vibration was but I got some of the right wheels on as quick as I could afford it.
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Here seems to be your answer....first hand info of what you were asking about!! Still want to compromise??
 
I just looked at that wheel on XXR's web site and they are all 4 bolt rims not 5. If that helps at all.
 
cuda65vpt said:
My 64 Valiant had 5x100 steel wheels off some import on the rear when i bought it. I suspect they weren't on the front too because of the hub thing. I couldn't keep the lug nuts tight, they would loosen up over about a week or so of driving 45 miles a day. Not a problem for me who recognized what that funny vibration was but I got some of the right wheels on as quick as I could afford it.
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That is what the thread said that I can't find too but he actually had pictures showing the differences. I wish I had saved that thread but I never dreamed that people would continue to try this.

I do have a question.... If you are going to buy new rims why not buy some that actually are made for your car? There is another thread where a member found some good looking aftermarket wheels that was large like you are looking for.
 
one mile said:
Now if we can get to the bottom of this it would be great for quite a few people.
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:shock: I think the only thing that we need to get to the bottom of is why you are still trying to figure out whether this is going to work. It's not! How much more convincing do you need?

Get the right wheels for the car, period. Spend some coin on decent tires instead.

Frankly, those wheels look like cheap junk. That website you linked is for the "yooooooo, them ***** is ballin' '" crowd. Like JC Whitney for kids with their pants on the ground.

Again, GET THE RIGHT WHEELS FOR THE CAR. Seriously. Rallye wheels look decent on any muscle era Mopar, no matter what body style.

For what its worth, I worked as a dealership tech for several years. Every so often I'd get a car with a complaint about this or that which could be definitively traced back to some insanely stupid wheel and tire combination that was never meant to be on the car. I used to love to tell these idiots that they voided their warranty by installing aftermarket parts and the only way to solve the 'complaint' was to re-install the factory components.

And don't get me wrong, I'm all for installing aftermarket wheels as long as they were designed to fit the car, are able to be torqued down properly and do not compromise safety. I have aftermarket wheels on my own car, Centerline Auto Drags. Unlike the ones you are looking at though, they are the correct bolt pattern, have the correct hub register and can be tightened down properly with long shank lug nuts. I even went so far as to get longer wheel studs that at this time are only available through a source from Australia. The rears use long ARP studs with long shank lugs.

No way in hell were those monstrosities designed to fit an old Mopar.

But yoooo, they ballin', son.
 
Put them on, drive it yourself for 2 or 3 months on a daily basis as she would and you will get the answer you seak. Lug nuts require re-torque after a: 3-5 days or b: 50-100 miles. Which ever comes first regardless of make, material, or reason. So remember that with whatever decision you make. Unfortunately, your going to get speculation regardless. The nature of the Bp beast. I personally would do just as I said above. If you encounter a problem during the 2-3 month duration, then you know for certain that those wheels don't work. Is it money spent? Yes. It's also a lesson learned.

OR

Do as mentioned a few posts back get the adapters. Do a little grinding on the drum so they bolt flush and you will be almost worry free.

It all comes down to you and what you feel is right. Best of luck to you and your pocket book with a new(ER) driver in the house.
 
Cirid.com told me on the Phone (I called) and the 5 lug 16's and 17's are sold out and on back order. 15x8's on back order also, BillGrissom posted some info we all should read. listed under the Early A general Disscussion
"16's on a '65 Barracuda " I am going to follow that info after studing what is listed there. Thanks EVERYONE for your input. Not too many years ago you had to Hot Rod anything by "Trial and Error" we did not have info like we have now. THANKS ! Tim (Dad):thumleft:
 
rmchrgr said:
No way in hell were those monstrosities designed to fit an old Mopar.

But yoooo, they ballin', son.
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monstrosities is my concern too. Another member is questioning 17X8 and a 1 inch spacer too. My question ( without beingan engineer ) is
At what point do the wheels apply too much stress to the skinny *** axles, unintended wheel bearings, 7/16 lug studs ?

It doesn't have to be the wheel mounting that fails. Parts behind the wheel could fail.
But anyway...
 
RedFish said:
monstrosities is my concern too. Another member is questioning 17X8 and a 1 inch spacer too. My question ( without beingan engineer ) is
At what point do the wheels apply too much stress to the skinny *** axles, unintended wheel bearings, 7/16 lug studs ?

It doesn't have to be the wheel mounting that fails. Parts behind the wheel could fail.
But anyway...
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Which is why I always get wheels that weigh less than factory. Konig is a great source of light weight wheels
 
MoparDaddy said:
Which is why I always get wheels that weigh less than factory. Konig is a great source of light weight wheels
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The weight of the wheels wasn't even considered in my thoughts.
The directional stresses were my concern. maybe there aren't any. I dont know. I wont find out through trial either. good luck to all of you
 
RedFish said:
The weight of the wheels wasn't even considered in my thoughts.
The directional stresses were my concern. maybe there aren't any. I dont know. I wont find out through trial either. good luck to all of you
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I figure the heavier the wheel, the more wear and tear on everything that has to spin it.
 
The greater the diameter of the tires the greater the bending stress on the axle, spindle, suspension and bearings. Also the greater the torque against the brakes requiring an upgrade in brakes just to maintain the original braking ability. Many say the early "A"s had marginal brakes when new. If you increase tire diameter without improving the brakes you may find yourself doing bodywork by crunch.
 
nuttyprof said:
The greater the diameter of the tires the greater the bending stress on the axle, spindle, suspension and bearings. Also the greater the torque against the brakes requiring an upgrade in brakes just to maintain the original braking ability. Many say the early "A"s had marginal brakes when new. If you increase tire diameter without improving the brakes you may find yourself doing bodywork by crunch.
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Yea. I'm not sure why someone would increase tire diamer overall. I think a 28" tire would be the tallest I'd go on an A.
 
inkjunkie said:
How much do you value her life? I understand that others have said it is not a problem but when safety is involved.......
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ding ding ding. just because nobody has had a st hand failure doesn't mean that you will not be the first one and pay for it with your, or someone else's life.
 
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