Green bearing open vs. sure grip problem

demulsion said

I did have to remove the thrust bushings from the sure grip center when I installed these axles. I thought the open diffs were set up differently, but I'll check it out again (I never looked too close as I've only ever removed them...). I might just grind the axles down like mikedevore mentioned. I just wanted to make sure I wasn't missing something stupid first (it was midnight when I was working on it, after all).
I'm somewhat familiar with the green vs. tapered bearing situation, but definitely still learning. I've always run tapered, but was in a bind and I got these axles with green bearings on them cheap second hand. So I'm running them for now.

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All factory 3rd members have either thrust buttons (clutch type sure grip) or a thrust block (cone type sure grip and open differentials). If they didn't there would be nothing for the axles to but against to set the end play. Open diffs and cone type SG's are slightly more work to modify for green bearings because you have to slip the spider cross pin out to remove the thrust block.

As per Joe, I can't understand why aftermarket can't make them the right size either. Extra long axles are useless IMO because it's not like the splines go all the way through the diff so you get more spline engagement. For that reason I see no issue with trimming them down to fit as long as you measure properly.