Almost have the drum brakes done but have a question.

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grassy

grassy

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I finally rec'ed the parts I ordered to put the 10 inch drum brakes together on my 8 3/4 axle. The axle wasn't on the car when I bought it. I have been using the service manual, haynes and what I thought was a good drum brake diagram.

Some of the parts were wrong but I happened to have the right ones in a pile of parts.

I had to do a lot of guessing because I have never taken one apart.

I hit a snag at the very end. Unfortunately I am not using MOPAR parts.. but rather parts I got from UAP. The service manual makes references to their parts that haven't been made on the clone parts.

My question surrounds the overload spring and the adjusting lever. They don't seem compatible. In one diagram there seems to be another spring leading from the same place that the overload spring attaches to the adjusting leaver to the primary shoe lining.

Here is a picture of what I am talking about. What am I missing ( besides a stud) ?

Thanks
ian.

db1-XL.jpg
 
You need to run the cable over the sheet metal guide that's behind the end of the yellow spring and you should be fine.
 
It was there...I just let it hang.

How to I attach overload spring and the adjusting lever. And the leaver is just flopping around on the post of the secondary shoe lining.

Something isn't right.

ian.
 
This diagram seems to be making the rounds..see the extra ajusting spring.

drum_brake_system-X2.jpg
 
the green spring just simply hooks to the adjuster after you put it over the silver piece. I will pm you a pick in a few minutes.
 
grassy said:
This diagram seems to be making the rounds..see the extra ajusting spring.
Click to expand...


Ian, that diagram is the 68 back diagram. Your parts are the 69 up parts and things are slightly different. This is just a sample picture to show the automatic adjuster cable.
 

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You can't go by that diagram because you have the wrong cable setup. Look closely at the adjuster lever in the diagram and you will see that there is no spring at the end of the cable, just a hook which goes in the eyelet of the lever, which is also incorrect for your application. You need the closed eyelet, the hook ended spring, and the counter spring that tensions the lever against the cable.

If you just try to use the cable/spring you have, there is no counter tension to keep the lever in place!!

Hope this helps clear up your dilemma,Geof
 
Maybe this'll help the rear adjuster lever spring works like a leaf, difficult to see.....
 

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Holy balls!! Why is it so hard to load a effffingg pic to this site ???
 

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Guys, I appreciate this. Had the garage stereo up louder today so no one could hear me swearing at this :) It is no fun trying to put in the shoe retainers by hand. Gave up and bought the tool.

OK. I think I got it. A pic is worth a thousand words for me.

I take the hook on the adjuster leaver and slip it behind the overload spring to hold it down like it is in panel 7, 8 and 10.

I then take the extra spring I have (lever spring) slip it around the bottom of the adjuster lever thereby holding it into place and connecting the other end of the spring in the same hole and the automatic adjuster spring.

That makes sense.

ian.
 
We have another fund raiser for my son's team tomorrow (car wash) then I can do the other side. We are hoping to get the car into the garage before he leaves on Tuesday.

I do believe we are on a roll.

:)

Ian.
 
FJ5 said:
Holy balls!! Why is it so hard to load a effffingg pic to this site ???
Click to expand...

I don't know............how did you do it?

I resize mine to 800 pixels on the widest dimension or less, then either have them hosted so you can post a link in the img tags or else hit the paper clip above your post. If it doesn't show, go down below first, and hit the "go advanced" button, at which point the paper clip should appear above
 
grassy said:
I then take the extra spring I have (lever spring) slip it around the bottom of the adjuster lever thereby holding it into place and connecting the other end of the spring in the same hole and the automatic adjuster spring.

That makes sense.

ian.
Click to expand...

Doesn't quite make sense to me. You slip the lever spring over the stud before installing the lever. It should look just like the photos that were posted. Maybe post a final photo to verify.

Looks like you correctly put the adjusting cable on the aft side. The gomer who worked on my Valiant before I bought it put it on the front side, where it would tighten the brakes every time you stop.
 
...............Hey Ian, ur missing the tab that holds the brakes to the stud on the top center, it goes on then ur cable then ur springs, rear spring on 1st then front spring........also ur strut bar and anti rattle spring are not right but still may work, but appears to be holding the shoes away from the top stud........is ur adjuster left hand thread on the drivers side, it should be.........kim.....
 
oldkimmer said:
...............Hey Ian, ur missing the tab that holds the brakes to the stud on the top center, it goes on then ur cable then ur springs, rear spring on 1st then front spring........also ur strut bar and anti rattle spring are not right but still may work, but appears to be holding the shoes away from the top stud........is ur adjuster left hand thread on the drivers side, it should be.........kim.....
Click to expand...

Good eye Kim
 
Ian, the lock (horseshoe clip) needs to be all the way on and the ends bent in to keep it from coming off. See post #10.

It also looks like you are missing the bottom pin lock on the shoe hold down pins on both sides. The spring is supposed to be sandwiched. It should be pin lock, spring and pin lock.
 
Just when I think I got it :)

Kim,

ur missing the tab that holds the brakes to the stud on the top center

Do you have a picture of this ? I have a stud left from my adjuster kit...is there a pic of how it installs ?

Then ur cable then ur springs, rear spring on 1st then front spring........

OK, got that. Order is important.

Strut bar and anti rattle spring are not right but still may work, but appears to be holding the shoes away from the top stud

Buddy then sold me the wrong parts. I didn't know really what they should look like. Will have to get that resolved pronto.

is ur adjuster left hand thread on the drivers side, it should be

Does that mean it expands when rotated clockwise (when facing the front of the car) it expands ?

Okla,

It also looks like you are missing the bottom pin lock on the shoe hold down pins on both sides. The spring is supposed to be sandwiched. It should be pin lock, spring and pin lock.

Could you circle that in one of the pics.

This is considered a 10 inch brake, correct ?

Thanks
ian.
 
ur missing the tab that holds the brakes to the stud on the top center

Look at panel # 10 there in a washer with 2 ears goes between the springs and the shoes.
It's #3 on panel 7 .

Strut bar and anti rattle spring are not right but still may work, but appears to be holding the shoes away from the top stud
Looks like you have the left and right sides mixed up.

is ur adjuster left hand thread on the drivers side, it should be

If you look on the end of the threaded part of the adjuster it should be stamped with a L (driver side) or R (passenger side) so it's easy to check
 
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