Wheel alignment specs.

I'm cheap. I like to get the MOST wear out of my tires. When I did alignments, all of my customers did, too. So, I very rarely set negative camber. While it's true, a small amount of negative camber does enhance driveability a little, these radial tires made today have rounded edges. Once a wear pattern starts, it is a sumbitch to reverse. Running negative camber is a surefire way to start it. I like settin camber between 0 and .5 positive. Remember, camber already goes negative in a turn. My thought has always been not to let it go too negative. Always had good luck with that and precious few combacks. Of course if the car is designed for negative camber, that's a whole nuther can of worms.

...and about the radial VS bias ply. Radials have different specs because it takes more to "move" the contact patch on a radial tire. They hold the road better. That's what they are designed to do. So usually they require more camber to get to the same place so to speak as a bias ply.

Usually good specs for just about any rear wheel drive muscle car era vehicle is 1/4-1/2 degree toe in, 1/2 degree to zero degree camber and 3-5 degrees caster....IF you can get it. Get the specs there and the car will near bout drive itself and wear the tires really well.

None of these old cars were designed to carve corners as they are anyway. They can be, but it take some modding to do it.