100 AMP alternator Q&A

You don't need a resistor, all you need is a diode. I used to run one of these not long after they came out. Hook the no2 terminal to "sense" (battery) and no1 is keyed power through a diode. You want the band of the diode like in this internet photo I scammed (photo at bottom of post)

You can get away without it, but being the crazy person I am, I decided I should also simulate the resistance of the bulb...I don't know if there is any chance the regulator may not last as long without the resistance, but anyway, it doesn't hurt anything.

That picture is wrong. There should be no connector between the "2" terminal and the B+ on the back of the alternator. If you do that, it works just like a 1 wire.

http://www.madelectrical.com/electricaltech/remotevoltagesensing.shtml

Run the remote voltage sensing as I have done and the thing will work absolutely fantastic.

After having a 78a square back mopar alternator and then changing to the 78a 12si Delco, there is no comparison in the performance. The square back still didn't charge well at idle. The 12si is completely unflappable. I believe that a 94a 12si would easily run electric fans, electric fuel pump, MSD, the headlights, blower motor, turn signals, brake lights, radio, charge your cell phone, etc and still keep the volt gauge above 14.