Built In Ballast Resistor In Ignition Coil
Somethings wired wrong but the hei conversion I told you about will eliminate a lot of old wiring plus give you better results. Cant believe you didnt order the kit yet, its like a $100. and easy to install.
With due respect he really should work out WTH is wrong with it at present before he "adds more troubles"
The thing is you have THREE threads and they all seem to be about the same problem.
1--WHAT do you have for wiring diagrams/ shop manual?
2--WHY are you using a "push start?"
3--If you have the ballast properly wired in, and the coil WHEN RUNNING is still running as high as you say, then the brown bypass circuit from the ignition switch is probably wired wrong, or problems in the switch
If you are going to fix this WE NEED MORE DETAILS. You need to sit up, pay attention, and keep this in one thread so people can follow along with "what you have" and "what you have done"
Go HERE and download the factory 72 Plymouth service manual, which as posted by AbodyJoe and is FREE
[ame]http://www.abodyjoe.com/pictures/Misc.%20car%20info/1972%20Plymouth%20Chassis%20Serv%20Man.pdf[/ame]
Simpler but not always complete, and not always correct diagrams at MyMopar
http://www.mymopar.com/downloads/1972/72DartA.JPG
http://www.mymopar.com/downloads/1972/72DartB.JPG
Now the original factory Mopar ignition switch is the "key" (no pun intended) to the whole deal. Ferd, GM, AMC used separate contacts in the starter solenoid to bypass the ballast resistor during "start."
Refer to the diagram below. I am assuming (maybe wrong) that you have a 2 pin resistor and the newer 4 pin ECU. In the diagram below, the top right wire marked "s" start is the BROWN ballast bypass coming from the ignition switch
The lower right marked "R" run is the switched ignition supply coming from the switch
Here's how the switch works.
Your ignition switch is SEVERAL completely separate switches in the can that we call "the ignition switch."
You have power coming into the switch from the battery buss, hot all the time, this will be the largest RED going to the switch connector
You have switched ACCESSORY coming OUT of the switch, hot in both "run" and "accessory." This is the large BLACK coming out
For "ignition run" you have what Ma calls IGN1, or we call "ignition run" traditionally dark blue. This is hot ONLY in run, and feeds power to the cluster gauges and warning lights and comes out through the bulkhead to feed the alternator field, regulator, and ignition system, THE RUN WIRE in the diagram below. On some cars, it feeds electric choke, and smog doo dads
For "start" which only operates the starter, we have the YELLOW start wire, comes from the switch, out through the bulkhead, and to the start relay. On cars which have seat belt interlocks, the yellow goes through the reset box, which you can bypass. The start wire is hot only in start
For "ignition bypass" which Ma calls "IGN2" we have the brown, comes from the switch, out through the bulkhead and to the coil side of the ballast. This is THE START WIRE in the diagram below, is hot only in start
Now to start finding out WTH is wrong, try this
Pull both connectors off the ballast resistor, and pull the connector off the ECU. Put your meter on the coil + terminal, and turn the key to "run" Tell us what you read. Should be zero volts
Hook wiring back up "normal" and with key in "run" but engine not running, measure voltage
A --at battery
B--both sides of ballast
C--at coil negative terminal