Leaking Coolant

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jpsfmc1229

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Hey guys, just got my 1971 Dart Swinger 225 /6 tonight. Started it after it was off the trailer to drive it to my driveway and the engine overheated. Let the car cool down, brought it to my garage and put some more coolant into it. This is when I noticed a leak, which looks like a hole in the block. ive got a picture to show the spot. Anybody else have this happen to them? Any suggestions as to solutions? I am very new here so any input is greatly appreciated! Thanks
 

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Looks like a freeze plug has rusted and is leaking, it can be replaced .
 
yep you just need to pull the intake and exhaust manifold off and replace all the plugs.
 
Hey thanks for the quick response guys, anyone know where to buy replacements and how much? I'll tackle this first thing in the morning and see if i've got more questions.. I am sure i will haha
 
Yep, that next one back isn't looks like it's next doesn't it?
Guess what? you get to learn how to do freeze plugs. :D

You could probably find video's on You Tube that explain it well.

Like this one, even though there are a few very little things I do differently, this is the basics of freeze plugs.

[ame="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MsZNZovrDzQ&list=PLECE4F5B127122DC0"]Frost plug replacement - YouTube[/ame]
 
Take a picture of the intake/exhaust manifold nuts and washers so you will know how to put them back on, they will need to be shot with some penetrating oil spay, Blaster is best JMO, and let it set and spray again the next day, Take your time and enjoy, these are tightened to just 15 inch lbs so keep us updated on your moves so we can help as you move forward
As you can see we have some of the best tech around and ready to help.
One step at a time and by looking at the freeze plugs it needs to be dun.

Lets take a look at your project :glasses7:
 
If you are in a bind and need to get things running, you can get rubber freeze plugs. When I was a kid we would tap the plug edge lip with a hammer and screw driver, turn it sideways and remove with vice grips. Then go to the parts place and get a rubber expandable freeze plug that was slightly smaller (like a 1/16"). When you put it in the hole where the freeze plug was and turn the nub, it expands and stays in. Excellent temp solution which I ran for a long time back then on several freeze plug holes.

I am not sure of how long they will last other than I ran mine for 2 years with zero issues.
 

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I did the rubber replacement on a 307 Olds for my brother, it was good fore the next 3 years he owned the car. If you live in a cold weather country they make a block heater
that will look just like the rubber freeze plug.
 
Thanks a lot guys, tons of info and help. Here are a couple of pics of the whole car. Besides a few mechanical issues, she in good shape.
 

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Wow! Very nice and complete Dart, remember to soak all the intake/exhaust nut's/threads
so we don't see a post of what size extractor and drill bit to use because a stud broke.
Have you ever removed an intake and exhaust from a /6 before ?
 
memike said:
Wow! Very nice and complete Dart, remember to soak all the intake/exhaust nut's/threads
so we don't see a post of what size extractor and drill bit to use because a stud broke.
Have you ever removed an intake and exhaust from a /6 before ?
Click to expand...

Just soaked the bolts in PB blaster and I am going to let them sit overnight, then re soak tomorrow. And this is the first /6 Ive ever worked on!
 
memike said:
I did the rubber replacement on a 307 Olds for my brother, it was good fore the next 3 years he owned the car. If you live in a cold weather country they make a block heater
that will look just like the rubber freeze plug.
Click to expand...

+1 To this idea. Plus the block heater plug does not require removing the intake to install. I absolutely love the core plug block heater in my 225 valiant. Easier winter starting and much much faster warmup/heat. I recall the slant using 1 5/8" freeze plugs. here is a link to a suitable plug style block heater

http://www.jegs.com/p/JEGS-Performa...-Plug-Core-Plug-Block-Heaters/752718/10002/-1
 
If it is the nut and bolt that holds the intake and exhaust manifolds together under
the carb you can take that off (if it don't break) after you remove the int/exh manifolds
all at one time (together) I believe, But if you are talking about a manifold nut you will need a 1/4'' drive ratchet with a extension along with a swivel on a socket, or a swivel socket

I hope I typed this out so you can understand it
 
Got it!, but I sheared the bolt that connects the intake to the exhaust manifold.. figured I'd to at least one haha. I've got a picture below. Also, the two nuts holding the exhaust piping to the manifold aren't coming off.. letting the Pb soak some more..
 

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I don't know if you really need a block heater. Our slanty starts fine in the winter and I live a little north of you.
 
jpsfmc1229 said:
Got it!, but I sheared the bolt that connects the intake to the exhaust manifold.. figured I'd to at least one haha. I've got a picture below. Also, the two nuts holding the exhaust piping to the manifold aren't coming off.. letting the Pb soak some more..
Click to expand...

All things considered, you are doing really well.
Good call, let the nuts soak.
That broken bolt should actuall be pretty easy to deal with if you have a sharp punch, a drill, an easy out and some patience.
If you feel it's too much for you a pro could do that one pretty fast.
 
TrailBeast said:
All things considered, you are doing really well.
Good call, let the nuts soak.
That broken bolt should actuall be pretty easy to deal with if you have a sharp punch, a drill, an easy out and some patience.
If you feel it's too much for you a pro could do that one pretty fast.
Click to expand...

bought an extractor, drilled the bolt, and the extractor broke off in the drilled bolt.. now i cant re drill and try another..
 
Doing fine, Like I said one step at a time, do freeze plugs and make sure your heat riser is not stuck and restricting exhaust flow, I removed the flapper in a truck I had and here in Arkansas it did great, it was stuck (froze up) so I removed just the flapper.
Moving forward :cheers: memike like :thumleft:
 
jpsfmc1229 said:
bought an extractor, drilled the bolt, and the extractor broke off in the drilled bolt.. now i cant re drill and try another..
Click to expand...
That happened to me quite a few times. I have one stuck in my 383 head valve cover hole. I'll never use a cheap Chinese Easy Out again. I find better to drill the bolt close, then fold the shell inward or use a tap to chip it up. Sometimes you can drill around the broken piece with a small drill to pick out the hardened steel. In your case, looks like you can attack the broken bolt from the other side. Can't you double-nut it there to screw it upwards?

Re your freeze plugs, I have a pretty new block heater that was in one slant freeze plug hole. I'll never use it, but you might up north. PM me if interested, real cheap. Best to install in the forward hole for a shorter connection. You just plug into 120 VAC.
 
I cannot get the two nuts that attach the exhaust manifold to the exhaust pipe undone for the life of me. And the manifold needs to come off to get to the freeze plugs..
 
My friend is going to bring an air hammer, and we will take care of the bolts tomorrow or next weekend. freeze plugs and new gaskets will be in next Thurs or so. Decided to clean the car up a bit and make her look nice while i'm waiting for the right tools. Thanks again everyone for the input. Here are a few pics!
 

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