Manual valve body
- Thread starter WRB426
- Start date
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Certainly. I drove one everyday back and forth to work 12 miles one way for almost 4 years. You've been talkin to the wrong people. Obviously chebbie guys.
OldmanRick
Well-Known Member
Yes!!! As long as you're not barking the tires on every shift, and getting spinning wheels tickets like I did back in the 70's, you're good to go 
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Rocky_JS
'cuda
I ran one in my a and e-body and kept the stock shifter. Push the button and pull back cant remember ever missing either.
HotLines
Realist - Free Thinker
My 64 Signet has a reverse manual push button 1962 big block 727 transmission with freewheeling first gear and was built as a race trans by Dynamic for the Signet, it's got a 3000 Dynamic convertor. It's been in my car since around 1990 and fits behind a small block roller cam 360. I am getting tired of pushing the buttons and I am getting tired of the slamming hammer like shifts, but it's fun to wind it up and drive At times I wish it worked by itself but it don't. I'll be 70 years old in November...
At times I wish it worked by itself but it don't. I'll be 70 years old in November...
Turbo Action,all the way. X2 on the Cheetah shifter,and one of their valve bodies.
Rice Nuker
Let the Coal Roll!
I think the concern with street driving the "non rear band apply" manual valve bodies is mainly if the rear sprag fails due to some sort of driving mistake, it may be easy to accidentally blow the trans to pieces and hurt yourself. We have ran several non rear band apply valve bodies on the street with out issue but doing something silly in first while coasting and jamming on the gas may cause trouble.
I would simply suggest getting a valve body that has low band apply as part of its design. This would make for a more streetable safe setup and less likely to cause explosion.
Also, street driving I think you can soften shifts slightly by leaving the accumulator spring in? Not sure if that will help but seems logical that it will (as long as the VB still makes use of the accumulator). Our current cheeta foward pattern VB shifts firm and quicl but not at all harsh, I believe I left the accumulator spring in.
I would simply suggest getting a valve body that has low band apply as part of its design. This would make for a more streetable safe setup and less likely to cause explosion.
Also, street driving I think you can soften shifts slightly by leaving the accumulator spring in? Not sure if that will help but seems logical that it will (as long as the VB still makes use of the accumulator). Our current cheeta foward pattern VB shifts firm and quicl but not at all harsh, I believe I left the accumulator spring in.
71swing
Well-Known Member
Cope racing reverse manual with b&m quick shift shifter, its just a matter of tapping the shifter to change gears. You may at least want to upgrade the rear servo piston to an aftermarket piece. The stockers are known the split from the higher psi generated by the valvebody.
Using the manual on the street you dont use 1st gear unless you come to a complete stop and need to take off again. Other wise for the most part you stay in 3rd and down shift to second for slow turns. I also tend to shift out of first fairly quick to reduce the hard shifts.
Using the manual on the street you dont use 1st gear unless you come to a complete stop and need to take off again. Other wise for the most part you stay in 3rd and down shift to second for slow turns. I also tend to shift out of first fairly quick to reduce the hard shifts.
Kegan,running the Hurst currently. Good info.Cheetah /Turbo Action consistently kick ***.
Charrlie_S
Well-Known Member
My 64 Signet has a reverse manual push button 1962 big block 727 transmission with freewheeling first gear and was built as a race trans by Dynamic for the Signet, it's got a 3000 Dynamic convertor. It's been in my car since around 1990 and fits behind a small block roller cam 360. I am getting tired of pushing the buttons and I am getting tired of the slamming hammer like shifts, but it's fun to wind it up and drive
It must be an AGE thing. I am 71, and I have pushbutton shifter in a console between the buckets on my 66 Cuda. 170 slant six, 904, manual VB using the "Direct Connection" kit, and a 8 inch converter. I, also get tired of pushing buttons, on the street. AS for the slamming gear changes, if you shift early, the slippage in the converter helps to cushion the shift.
aengineguy
Well-Known Member
Run a reverse manual 904 with B and M Ratchet on the street. Tons of fun! No issues.
There was a reverse manual valve body in my Dart (former drag queen) operated via stock console shifter when I purchased it. I ran the car like this for one season, and soon tired of the goofy light handed click-click-click, first to third and back down again action with an occasional misplaced hard thrust in direction of glove compartment accompanied by a quivering clutch foot. Old habits are hard to break even with just two peddles… It just wasn’t doing it for me, or the shifter which was not designed for continuous shift duty. So I converted back to self-shifting/manual valve body, and let the machine do the gear changes 98% of the time.
If you want to shift, drop in a four speed, hang a left pedal from the dash, and it will sound and feel right rowing through the gears.
Just my 2 cents.
If you want to shift, drop in a four speed, hang a left pedal from the dash, and it will sound and feel right rowing through the gears.
Just my 2 cents.
I think sometimes people blow the low band apply thing outta proportion. If you know when and when NOT to shift, you don't need low band apply, OR a bolt in sprag. This is especially the case if you run a manual valve body, since you can start your burnout already in 2nd gear, eliminating the 1-2 shift altogether. It's the shock of hooking up immediately on the 1-2 shift coming out of the burnout box that destroys the transmission. Eliminating the 1-2 shift altogether, OR making DAMN SURE you're still spinning going into 2nd gear eliminates this possibility completely. Torqueflites are generally very stupid proof.
SRT_DSTRHOLC
Well-Known Member
I run a cope on the street
67Dart273
Well-Known Member
That's not the question he asked, for me not an option, AND "change the shfiter" problem solved.
I've run manual gearboxes for the majority of my life, no longer can do.
Yeah. People who haven't had knee pain don't know what it's like. It'll bring you to you knees.....pun intended. Mine have been giving me trouble now for about the last year......but the rat truck still gets a 4 speed if I am able to keep it. I don't need to use the clutch to shift anyway.
If I wasn't on a budget I would swap to a 4 speed. Trying to put a drag car back on the street. Have enough money to spend on other areas. Hoping to use the trans I have. I'm thinking 4 speed for the next project for sure. My plans are to get the car going with what I have then do a 383 swap into the car. Cheaper right now to do it this way. Just need more $$$$$$$$$$$$$!!!!
Thanks for all the input. It helps to have info.
Thanks for all the input. It helps to have info.
Divenut
Well-Known Member
HotLines
Realist - Free Thinker
Charrlie S, I understand that perfectly well in regards to the convertor and softness. My shifter is just forward yet in-between as well. Actually it's two fold when shifting, as I can bring the RPM's up and shift it just letting off a bit and appears to be very smooth, but Homey don't play those games.. If it wasn't that the welded in frame connectors hadn't gone through the floor, I would certainly have bigger problems than hard shifting. I think what it needs is more horse power and more torque
famous bob
mopar misfit
having had a violent 727 explosion once, an ex partner and friend that is up on the torqueflites, I went w/ a fully auto., NOTHING COOLER THAN WATCHING A CALAWAY CORVETE, or turbo porche being blown away by some mopar driver that`s all relaxed, one arm laid on the window-the other on the wheel. old school cool! been there done that.Charrlie S, I understand that perfectly well in regards to the convertor and softness. My shifter is just forward yet in-between as well. Actually it's two fold when shifting, as I can bring the RPM's up and shift it just letting off a bit and appears to be very smooth, but Homey don't play those games.. If it wasn't that the welded in frame connectors hadn't gone through the floor, I would certainly have bigger problems than hard shifting. I think what it needs is more horse power and more torque
p.s. the later band apply valve bodies are the way to go.:cheers:
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