416 low oil pressure at idle

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I had a 340 that had a factory over size lifter in the block but some one had a standard size lifter in it had the same issue

my understanding is if the block had oversize lifter bores there would be some markings on the block, does anyone know where I can look for the markings ??? I have no history on this block
 
we are running a solid Lunati Voodoo # 60442 with their EDM lifters, I read somewhere today that edm's may cause lower pressures ???

Yes, it's an additional controlled bleed point
 
Last time we assembled my 340, when we installed the oil pump dive, it broke the oil pump. I watched my dad install it, it wasn't like he pounded on it, just lightly tapped it in. Ended up with low oil pressure, pulled pan and found broken pump. Could also be the oil pump pressure spring. By chance do you have ARP main studs? One of the stud and nut on the rear cap will not allow the pump to sit flush, and you have to use a stock bolt.

yes we are using ARP main studs, the builder ruined the first pump from Mike @ MRL because he ground down too much and broke thru the housing, he then replaced pump with a standard Melling (so i'm told) then clearanced the pump and shortened the stud and bolt on a Bridgeport..
 
I have EDM's in mine, with HV pump oil pressure has been 25 idle to 70 @3000 with 10-30 oil. Standard volume pump in yours? I think with the 16 leaks the EDM lifters create a HV pump is cheap insurance, JMO.
 
Is the cup plug missing above the rear main cap, in the galley to make the oil go through the filter? You can check to see if it's in there by pulling the oil sender in the rear of the block and inserting a piece of welding rod down the hole. I checked 2 blocks in the garage and the rod went in 7.5" from the top. If it's not in there, you'll have low oil pressure, and it needs to go in from the bottom.

have not checked that yet, that is my next step in the discovery, my understanding is that this plug is just a diverter to the oil filter and has no effect on pressure ??? am I off-base ?
 
Before you start blaming it on parts, look at your oil.

You are running 20w/50 VRI.

Look at the viscosity index of that oil.

At 212 degrees F/ 100C it's at 20.5
At 104 defrees F/ 40C it's at 181.8

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=1496497

20w/50 is going to act like that. It's going to jump up in thickness/viscosity at low temp/ cold start and go down to around 10psi per 1000rpm at running temp, because it's engineered to protect parts under heavy use and this is consequential.

OilViscosityChart-Valvoline.gif


Listen to your engine builder. Every engine is different. If you were running 10w/30 or something lighter, you may have some concern on good seal on moving parts with tolerances, but the numbers you are seeing in oil pressure drop are normal for an eccentric viscosity index oil like that.
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when I talked to him today, he said to change to straight 30, I was running the Valv (not street legal) 20/50, he also mentioned that since we almost overheated last week, (temp got to 220+) we may have broken down the oil ??? said to dump it and go straight 30 ???
 
Yes, it's an additional controlled bleed point

Yup, I ran 20/50 Valvoline in my Swinger. Had 410 stroker in it and I used the EMD Solid lifers from Johnson. I also had Oil thru manton push rods to keep pressurized oil on the ball and cup. My oil pressure was low like yours until I wicked it up. I had like 10-12 PSI at Idle and around 45-50 PSI driving around. Get on it and it would go 65PSI. Cold it would hit 60 PSI at Idle and after it warmed up it would go to 10-12 Psi again at Idle.
 
as a racer with a 340 id be worried with that low of oil pressure, hell my stock 318 ran 25-30 psi hot 180 even after a run. try changing your oil to a different weight.also check the sump i guess youd call it if you can, i dropped my pan and found mine was loose and sucking air, had fluctuating oil pressure on my 340. also how did you break the motor in, ive seen people just throw em in regular oil no break in oil or additive if its a solid and it throws the oil pressure off and eventually spins a bearing first signs ive personally had. just some of the experiences ive had with multiple cars/motors also the crappy hydraulic lunati lifters, had 2 bad ones out of the box, tack weld broke and they were collapsed before even installing
 
How are you reading the oil pressure? Are you using a mechanical gauge or a gauge with an electrical sender? If you mix gauges and senders you can get strange readings as well. For reference I am running a stock block LA 360 put together on the assembly line many moons ago. With 20w-50w I am reading 60-65 PSI cold and 25psi hot on two different gauges. I hope it is something simple.

running an autometer mechanical with copper tubing, originally had the nylon tubing but that was the first thing we changed
 
put a bore scope in the dist. hole.
looking at the lifter bore area

turn the engine so that , that lifter is up/ ( fully open valve)

prime the oil system with a primeing rod

look to see, if there is bleed off or a spray of oil

our stock 340 has 30psi hot and 75 cold psi

15-40 oil
 
running an autometer mechanical with copper tubing, originally had the nylon tubing but that was the first thing we changed


Did you burp the oil between the gauge and the tube. I had low oil pressure on my 318 until I got the air out of the line. Just a thought. Also is the plug some mentioned the one in the block under the oil filter adapter?
 
My opinion.....the filter is not the issue.

i'm with you ! one thing the builder said, which may have some validity. is that the header clearance by the filter is causing the engine oil to become hotter than the engine water temp which can cause loss in viscosity, he recommended some header wrap to reduce the heat transfer to the oil filter.. is this bullshit by him covering his a?? or is it a good point.
 
i'm with you ! one thing the builder said, which may have some validity. is that the header clearance by the filter is causing the engine oil to become hotter than the engine water temp which can cause loss in viscosity, he recommended some header wrap to reduce the heat transfer to the oil filter.. is this bullshit by him covering his a?? or is it a good point.

I say BULLSHIT...... I just changed my filter today to a 1515 that gets real close to the TTI's. Headers were hot as *&%)#$@!! , I got burns to prove it! Got the car hot up to temp and pulled the dipstick. Touched the oil and it was barely warm.
 
I have EDM's in mine, with HV pump oil pressure has been 25 idle to 70 @3000 with 10-30 oil. Standard volume pump in yours? I think with the 16 leaks the EDM lifters create a HV pump is cheap insurance, JMO.

that's what i'm starting to realize, unfortunately !!!!
 
as a racer with a 340 id be worried with that low of oil pressure, hell my stock 318 ran 25-30 psi hot 180 even after a run. try changing your oil to a different weight.also check the sump i guess youd call it if you can, i dropped my pan and found mine was loose and sucking air, had fluctuating oil pressure on my 340. also how did you break the motor in, ive seen people just throw em in regular oil no break in oil or additive if its a solid and it throws the oil pressure off and eventually spins a bearing first signs ive personally had. just some of the experiences ive had with multiple cars/motors also the crappy hydraulic lunati lifters, had 2 bad ones out of the box, tack weld broke and they were collapsed before even installing

motor was broken in and dynoed with "Spectro high zinc motor guard break in oil"
 
Yup, I ran 20/50 Valvoline in my Swinger. Had 410 stroker in it and I used the EMD Solid lifers from Johnson. I also had Oil thru manton push rods to keep pressurized oil on the ball and cup. My oil pressure was low like yours until I wicked it up. I had like 10-12 PSI at Idle and around 45-50 PSI driving around. Get on it and it would go 65PSI. Cold it would hit 60 PSI at Idle and after it warmed up it would go to 10-12 Psi again at Idle.
MadDart - what do you mean by w\"wicking it up"
 
I say BULLSHIT...... I just changed my filter today to a 1515 that gets real close to the TTI's. Headers were hot as *&%)#$@!! , I got burns to prove it! Got the car hot up to temp and pulled the dipstick. Touched the oil and it was barely warm.

Yeah there's some poo flying there about the header heat!
 
What filter are you guy's running on your 416's - our build is a 72 Duster, 416 with TTi step headers, the 1068 is a real tight fit and the 1085 seems better, have not tried the 1515 because I don't think it will fit, I have all the parts to run a remote setup but have not had the time to do it because of all of the other issues...
 
Smacking the GO Pedal. The "Throttle"

lol, I thought that is what you meant, did you change anything or did you just run it that way?

Should we change to a high volume pump ???
 
Yeah there's some poo flying there about the header heat!

I agree ! my car is a 72 Cuda 340 and im running a 1068 and the filter is close to the header and i'm running 35/40 at hot idle with 60+ cruising,
 
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