Here's the deal - The Voo Doo line has a fast ramp speed compared to the other major cam grinders' with the exception of Hughes. Which is also why Hughes tends to tell you run their springs. It's the main reason all the Voo Doo cams require a dual valve spring and as a builder I tend to use whatever the cam maufacturer tells me to use for a given cam and any engine that requires true dual valve spings you MUST remove the inner spring for the cam break in process. As a refresher - a performance spring has an outer srping with a flat wound dampener in it. See the Comp 901-16 as an example. A dual spring assembly has the outer spring with the inner flat wire dampener, plus a smaller diameter inner spring that is easilly left out by your builder and replaced after the engine's cam is broken in. The 10200703 (what the 60403 changed part number to) is no exception in terms of springs - it requires a dual spring that requires the guides and seats be cut on factory heads, and that the inner be left out during cam break in.
It actually surprised me with the idle quality and vacuum in the engine I ran it in - a modified 318. I think it would be a great choice for a mild 360.
On the break in process - this really starts at the point the heads are assembled without the inner springs and the rockers are torqued down. That's long before the engine starts or you add oil. You can put on the cam break in lube when the cam's installed. But by the time you've got it ready to fire it's been rotated a bunch of times and the break in lube has been mostly wiped off. The more spring pressure you have, the more likely it will be rubbed off. I always make the pushrods and rockers the last thing I do and once they're on - don't turn the engine unless you have to (bolting on the convertor to flex pate, etc.) Also - the engine has to fire immediately. You have to know the ignition works and is timed properly, the fuel system is primed and working, and that the cooling system is adequate (and I fill mine with water so if it overflows or burps I can top it off easy while it's running and it doesnt waste coolant). The oil you use should be one high in zink - I use the Not For Street Use Valvoline VR1 for break in and depending on the engine - it might be the oil spec'd for it's service life. Another option is to use whatever oil you want and the Comp additive. No matter how you do it - the zink in the oil must be addressed - IMO running any standard SAE rated "starburst" oil with no additive is asking for a problem now-a-days. You can afford good oil if you can afford to build the engine. These caras are not being driven as much or as far and oil change intervals at least where I am are twice in 6 months barring any problems.
So that's my take anyway...