66 Dart electronic ignition issues

To add some to the above, making voltage or resistance checks without knowing what to expect is probably only going to confuse you

In the second diagram down, showing the regulator, essentially what you have there is:

Switched 12V ignition goes to BOTH the "I" terminal of the regulator and either field terminal of the alternator.

The green wire is "controlled to ground" by the regulator. That is, when charging, the regulator holds the green closer to ground for higher output. To put it another way, if you were to unhook the green from the alternator, ground that alternator field terminal, you would then have maximum field current, and should also have maximum charging output.

Normally, with key in "run" there should be full battery voltage at both the "I" terminal and the alternator blue field wire. With everything hooked up, the green terminal, backprobed, should show some low voltage, showing that it is "closer to ground" and thus drawing field current

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It is absolutely IMPERATIVE that both the regulator and the ignition ECU are grounded not only to the body, but actually grounded to the battery. With key "in run" stab one meter probe directly into the top of the battery NEG post, and stab the other directly onto the case of the ignition box. You are hoping for a very low or zero reading, the lower the better. Over .3V is too much, and you need to improve grounding.

Regulator and other tests need to follow once it is running

Unhook the dist, check the resistance which is not critical, and hook your meter to the distributor connector on low AC volts. Crank the engine--it should generate about 1V AC

Wiggle all connectors repeatedly in/ out inspect for corrosion, and feel for "tightness"

Check the reluctor gap in the distributor, you can get a small brass feeler set at O'Really. .008", inches, not metric 'er somethin

Check the ballast for continuity. A quick trick is to hook a clip lead directly onto the coil + terminal, and the other end to a battery source, like the starter relay.

Crank the engine, see if you get spark. Check this right at the coil. At this point, it's really "what's cheapest" or "what you have." If you have a spare coil, try a coil, or the ECU.

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Many of us have gone to HEI modules. I just use the simple 4 pin HEI, and no ballast with a factory coil. Easy and simple. We just had a thread picturing gutting a Mopar box and installing an HEI inside for a "factory" look