Drum vs Disc, Power vs non Power

You should be able to rebuild the drum brakes for way under $250 in parts. Wheel cylinders cost ~$6 ea so I didn't even bother rebuilding them. Hoses are ~$6 ea. Shoes are ~$15 per axle. If you need new drums, costs go up. $20 ea for 10" fronts and maybe $80 ea for used 10" rears if you can find them. Very few have rear disks, so most people here are in the same boat, unless you change to a BBP rear. 9" drum parts are much easier and cheaper.

I rebuilt the 9" and 10" drums in my early-A's. I might add front disks someday when I have time to play, but I don't want cast-iron single piston sliders (73+ or Scarebird), nor pay >$600 for Wilwood, etc. What limits braking initially is the tires. As long as the brakes can lock up the tires equally, you can't do any better (other than anti-lock). After repeated braking, continuous braking (down-hill), or from a very high speed (one guy said 150 mph!), drum brakes will fade much sooner, but I don't plan to drive that way. I did have the drums in my 69 Dart slip after driving thru a very deep puddle in FL, but that is a rare "act of God" occurrence when you need to be aware. Driving in heavy rain doesn't matter. Indeed, the inside of drums must stay drier than disks. My 65 Newport has massive 11"x3" front drums that have no trouble stopping it.