Can the harmonic balance come loose?

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Well, Ok...

That actually took like 20 minutes. A little jolting of the crank bolt and it came loose, and a steering wheel puller pulled the balancer right off.

Other then that, no good news to report. This is what I found... :(
[ame]http://youtu.be/blnQq-lZf0g[/ame]
 
The engine I had was eaten by the balancer because as the outer ring loosened it moved in and hit the timing cover. That effectively pulled the crank forward and it ate the rear flange off the thrust bearing, and when it hit the steel baking of the bearing shell it ate the crank's thrust surface. What you have there is the same affect. So - my money's on the bearing is gone, the metal went all through it, the crank flange may or may not be trashed, and it's time to think about a rebuild or replacement. Sorry - that cheap balancer cost me $2800 out of pocket to make it right for my customer. Live and learn.
 
Ok don't listen to me. It's the thrust surface on the crank. I had the EXACT same thing.
 
If he is able to move the whole crank with two fingers! I will surprised. But I guess when he tears it down we will know. I still think it's a broke crank.
 
Simple.tear down,inspection needed. I been there,hate the dragging dread. Once you know,much easier. Best of luck.
 
I will really be surprised at this point if it is the thrust bearing. I cannot see you being able to move the entire crank and reciprocating assembly that easily. I think the crank is broken as well. This is a somewhat common problem with the cast steel stroker cranks. They crack right through the center of the first rod journal and break that first throw off with the crank snout.
 
RustyRatRod said:
I will really be surprised at this point if it is the thrust bearing. I cannot see you being able to move the entire crank and reciprocating assembly that easily. I think the crank is broken as well.
Click to expand...

Man I thought I was alone in what I was thinking!
 
I could move the 422's. And that was with a rope seal - but it wasn't attached to a torque convertor at the time. That being said I can move a convertor with my finger tips...lol. So who knows. It's broke - that's for sure. How broke no longer matters.
 
Well... what's broke is kind of a mute point right now. It needs a rebuild, that I know.
I am curious as to how because I obviously don't want this to happen again.

Now I have big decision to make.

I need a stroker crank, bearings, and I like to get decent heads, and a rebuild gasket set.

Can anyone give me a heads up on where to look and prices?

Thanks guys, I appreciate your support!
 
It'll be interesting to see when you pull it down.

Is it a stock stroke or 4in stroke? I might have missed that.
 
Yes, do an autopsy.. The "usual" reasons for a broken crank are harmonics. If the balancer was a loose fit (steering wheel puller should not have been enough IMO) that could do it. So could a balance issue. Or it could be like mine where the balancer just let go and it used up the thrust.
 
Oh and here is another way to stop it rotating.
Time to pull the HB bolt but no impact wrench so it just keeps rotating.....What to do???
Here is what I came up with. A bolt, flat washer, 2 feet of 3/16 chain wrapped round the sway bar.

P1010383_zpsd388a798.jpg
 
Maybe I missed it. The thing I haven't seen mentioned that makes bad noises as the front of the engine is to leave off the oil slinger on the front of the crank. The timing chain rubs on the front cover. The noise will change depending on the load on the valve train and distributor as determined by engine rpm.

I use a steering wheel puller to remove the harmonic balancer. By using two inch bolts in the tapped holes for the pulley, it doesn't matter what's going on with the outer ring on the balancer.
 
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