Trying to get rid of some things

ok i would go with a 9:1 compression which will let you run a good amount of boost later but better comp then what you have now. on the cam i would go with a low duration high lift on a wide LSA so something like 220-230 @ .050 with a 111-114 LSA, then as much lift as possible.

if your only gonna run a couple pounds of boost have the stock rods rebuilt with ARP bolts, then install stock cast flat tops back on it. summit sells them in .040, .060, and .080 over for less than 15 bucks a piece...

1.for the short block:
2.have it balanced
3.line hone the mains with ARP studs INSTALLED(make sure the studs dont block the oil passages)
4.Good timing set, i like the JP timing sets out of Aussie land (ebay) but roller masters are good and some guys like the cloyes
5.clean up and blend the oil passages, "port match" the hole in the block and head for the oil passage.
6. groove the camshaft about a 1/4" on either side of the hole on both sides for better top end oiling.
7. MILL only the block for compression! im learned this the hard way, milling the head other than a clean up moves the valves into the bore and shrouds the valves a bit.
8. install the bare head on the bare block and make sure the valves are centered in the bores, you may need offset pins, then scribe and open the chambers to that size (un shrouds the valves)

Top End
1. check your head and make sure its not a smog head (has port in rear for air injection) they have thin ports and weigh a ton!
2. what ever head you get have them install hardened exh seats
3. 1.7/1.44 ebay valves (enginebuilder)
4. slants love head work, 90% of your build depends on the head work, spend the money and it pays you back!
5. big block 1.5" diameter springs drop in and comp 744 retainers drop in as well
6. clean up mill only!
7. you are gonna need longer studs for the headers so have them remove them and mill the intake.exh surface (clean uo cut)
7. replace the stock adjuster for isky locking adjusters, will hold a lash forever

only other thing i can mention at this point is you may want to o ring the head/block for when you go to a turbo.

im sure i missed some stuff and others will chime in but thats just off the top of my head lol

You hit the nail on the head. All really good advice. I wished I would have known on the head deal when it came to shaving. I cut mine but wished I would have done the block instead.

I have one of the JP timing chains and it's a really nice piece.

I learned that you go really fast in a /6 even with stock style pistons. Get the compression up and let' her rip!!!

I have to do everything on a budget but compared the piston prices anyway. If you compare the KB239's to the Wiseco's, the Wiseco pistons cost about $100 more compared to the 2.2 KB's. Buy six of the KB's and the expensive rings...then you are real close. To bad I can't swing either one right now lol.