440 into 64 Valiant?

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What exactly will it take to put a 440 BB into a 64 Valiant and still have it driving as well it does now with my small block?

I've come across a BB w/ aluminum heads which I am sure will still make a big difference in comparison to the weight of the small block, so in reality, is this worth the conversion?

What do you know that can help me out?
 
Your biggest hurdle will be exhaust. I am not sure that you want fenderwell headers and that is about your only option. You are on the right track with weight reduction. Aluminum heads, intake, water pump and housing will all take weight off. The exhaust is the biggest hangup.
 
well Rob, you must already know my Signet has fenderwell headers as it stands and I am sure you can tell me more and I would call you if your cell worked..
 
I was thinkin maybe it had them, I could not remember.
 
I've got a 440/727 in a 65 Valiant and down the road from me is a 64 Dart 440/4spd. I don't know of any way past fenderwell headers and the commercially available ones (adapted from 67-Later A-body spec) all kill ground clearance by wrapping backwards to a horizontal collector. Mine were custom made 3/4 length with the collector pointing down allowing a turn backwards, higher up. I've seen B block (383/400) early A's with cast iron manifolds inside the fenderwells, but I couldn't tell you which manifold variation fit. Other problem areas are K-frame and lower radiator hose clearance for oilpump/filter and oil pan to steering linkage. Both 440 cars here have no heater/defroster (blower motor interference). My radiator is a factory 67 A-body big block repro and I use a mid 70's factory flex fan (some F-bodies and trucks). The Dart has a Ford radiator scrounged from a junkyard that fits really well but looks totally non-Mopar. Absolutely use all the aluminum you can, by the time you do that with the battery in the trunk you'll be no heavier than a stock small block on the front end but good luck getting anything but skinny rims while clearing the exhaust. I run a 2.76 Sure-Grip (cop car) rear with 275/60 15's in back. Combo of light car, big motor and tall gears is a blast. Building a second block now at 505 cubes... Don't be thinking of it as a drag car unless you back half it with slicks and a cage. You won't get 60 foot times out of it otherwise.
 
bolt in deal these days..

custom made headers are the way to go. have seen manifolds used but if you are going through all the trouble to stick a big block in it why shortcut the exhaust?

of course the trans tunnel will have to be clearanced to fit the 727.

with the right valve covers you can run the blower motor in the stock location with no issues.

lower rad hose i just had a piece of exhaust pipe bent up to run around the oil filter and over to the passenger side of the car.

rad was just a 318 with a/c rad that was recored with an extra row. nothing special.

i didn't have any k-frame interference or oil pan clearance issues. maybe i sat my motor a hair higher then stock would have been. who knows..

all in all its an easy swap...


64valiant025.jpg


64valiant023.jpg


64valiant024.jpg


64valiant019.jpg


64valiant022.jpg
 
What exactly will it take to put a 440 BB into a 64 Valiant and still have it driving as well it does now with my small block?

I've come across a BB w/ aluminum heads which I am sure will still make a big difference in comparison to the weight of the small block, so in reality, is this worth the conversion?

What do you know that can help me out?

Schumacher is selling the motor mount kit to put a B/RB in our Early As
http://www.engine-swaps.com/Pages/ProductsYear/63.66aBody.html
 
bolt in deal these days..

custom made headers are the way to go. have seen manifolds used but if you are going through all the trouble to stick a big block in it why shortcut the exhaust?

of course the trans tunnel will have to be clearanced to fit the 727.

with the right valve covers you can run the blower motor in the stock location with no issues.

lower rad hose i just had a piece of exhaust pipe bent up to run around the oil filter and over to the passenger side of the car.

rad was just a 318 with a/c rad that was recored with an extra row. nothing special.

i didn't have any k-frame interference or oil pan clearance issues. maybe i sat my motor a hair higher then stock would have been. who knows..

all in all its an easy swap...


64valiant025.jpg


64valiant023.jpg


64valiant024.jpg


64valiant019.jpg


64valiant022.jpg

Looks like a set of Sanderson headers I had in my boat. Cool
 
Don't get me wrong, I LOVE big block mopars, but if it's just a street car, a 4" stroke small block will give you plenty of torque and fits easy. A lot less work, jus' sayin'.
 
Understand. Did the Chevy gig,a while. Drop the hammer,with a solid camned ,1050 Dominator,square port 396. If U had the coin, go for it.
 
Even in a first-series A-body!

As one whose daily driver is a '62 Valiant 408 small block, I will advise you that if your car will have a more-or-less stock suspension, its limits of handling need to be only very gingerly explored. And don't punch the throttle in the middle of a turn.
 

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I've heard the ProParts headers can be modified to work. My best friend recently gave me a set. I'll let you know how they turn out, once I get around to exhuast.
 
I've heard the ProParts headers can be modified to work. My best friend recently gave me a set. I'll let you know how they turn out, once I get around to exhuast.


I have a set of modified pro parts headers. The ones that I have were modified for a low deck in an early a body.

Mike
 
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