Clean radiator, cool engine, coolant PH, flow, fans, shrouds.

Best to do the process with no thermostat and flush the system back and forward many times then fill / run / drain with tap water about 8 times.

Citric acid rather than muratic for a full system flush considering the exact reasons posted by autoxcuda. Although I have had great results with muratic, the results were on early 70s Oldsmobile engines with the only aluminum components being timing cover and water pump.

I totally agree that any modern or aluminum headed engine, a person should probably not resort to powerful cleaning agents in order to dissolve deposits. Maybe just pull the rad and soak it laying face down rather than an entire system flush with hi-po chemicals.

Yes, regarding removal of potent flush chemicals: in order to get the citric acid flush out of our Jensen 440, I ended up having to back and forward flush it with the hose by force about 5 times and fill / run / drain with the hose water probably 8 more times before it appeared and smelled like there was no acid in there. After about 4 fill / run / drain, I put coolant in there and discovered after a week and a few drives, that it was turning grey (see my previous post) so I did the fill / run / flush several more times, so totaling 8. Never the less, I will be changing the coolant once more in the near future. One major issue with my process on the Jensen is that the thermostat was super difficult to get to, so I left it in during the entire process, making the purging and elimination of leftovers quite difficult.