Windshield Mylar install Question

Thanks everybody. So I'm hearing:

- Is the rubber weatherstrip all one moulding or is it in two parts? SINGLE RUBBER MOULDING.
- Does the mylar strip lock the rubber weatherstrip and glass in place? YES.
- Can the mylar lock strip be replaced without pulling out the rubber and glass? YES. A SPECIAL HAND TOOL MAKES THE JOB EASIER BUT IT CAN BE DONE WITHOUT IT.
- Will the glass stay in place if the mylar lock strip is pulled out? ONLY DURING THE INSTALLATION; THE MYLAR LOCK STRIP IS NEEDED TO HOLD THE GLASS PERMANENTLY.
- How are the stainless pieces fastened? STILL DON'T KNOW, DOESN'T MATTER - SEE BELOW.
- Are the mylar lock strip and these stainless pieces available? MYLAR YES, TRIMS NO. MYLAR SHOULD BE MITRED AT CORNERS SO THAT CORNER TRIMS ARE NOT NEEDED.

ALSO:
- a thin bead of sealant should be applied to the glass-to-gasket joint. Sealant is not needed at gasket-to-body joint (see question below). Only lubricant (a thin dish soap solution?) should be applied to the mylar lock strip.
- if glass and gasket are being removed and reinstalled, the clothesline rope trick is described here. It's done from inside the car.
- anytime the glass is removed from the car, GET HELP. Original windshields and backlights are too expensive to risk mishandling on your own.
- if using silicone lubricant, avoid getting ANY on the car's paint. It can play havoc with future paint repairs. Maybe better not to use silicone at all. Armor-All has the same nasty effect - use it on tires only.

MORE QUESTIONS:
- Is there any harm in sealing the gasket-to-body joint, if leaks have been a problem?
- Is using water-soluble hand cleaner as a lubricant safe for gaskets and mylar lock strips?