Do I need to sand this whole thing down!

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Andre68

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I'm currently in the process of getting my 68 dart ready so I can paint it. I've sanded a door, trunk, both front fender panels, some of the engine bay and some of the trunk.

Now I understand sanding down the outside of the car, but what about the inside fender panels, and the floor pans and trunk underside and trunk floor, etc... The kinda not so seen areas. Do I really need to sand down this whole entire car to bare metal?

Is it bad to just rough up the paint and then go over it?
 
With a clean, sound, rust free substrate there is no need to strip to metal unless metal work is needed. I would would apply some good epoxy primer (2 coats) followed with urethane primer (2-3 coats) wet on wet concerning exterior parts. On the inner fenders and fire wall I would scuff it good and clean it following with epoxy then color wet on wet..
 
So if its a nice foundation just rough it up? And prime it and paint. Even over the existing paint?

Because I was sanding the doors today an I realized that the inside of the door wasn't too bad and it's already black, which I'm going to be painting anyways.

What about under the good and trunk? It's pretty tough with all those crevices and stuff.
 
You do not have to sand all the good solid paint to bare metal.

Andre68 can you stay with the one thread instead of 3.
I will help you as much as I know.

In the other thread I said wet sand the tight areas by hand, it really does not
take that long. By the time you go buy a sand blaster and hook it up plus you need
a high out put compressor,You be amazed at how much can be done.

Think of the mess of blasting ,you will have a cat problem because after that they
will think it as a giant litter box. And how are your neighbors?

These are my opinions and I learned on my own without the internet in my 20,s
I am 49 now and self taught. I buggered up alot along the way.

The bare metal has to be coat with epoxy primer like dodgecity said.


Darryl
 
Okay will do sorry about that monook...

What if the paint doesn't look solid? When I was sanding down the panels, I noticed a first grey which looked like rattle can primer, then yellow paint, and a red primer then sheet metal. My plan is to do the whole car glossy red.
 
When wet sanding, do I use a block or something? Cuz I believe using your actual hand is bad correct?
 
When wet sanding, do I use a block or something? Cuz I believe using your actual hand is bad correct?
I would not worry about a block yet, you do that after it is prime with epoxy
and the high build primer. so your first step is to get it ready for epoxy.
(for rust protection).

Darryl
 
Okay will do sorry about that monook...

What if the paint doesn't look solid? When I was sanding down the panels, I noticed a first grey which looked like rattle can primer, then yellow paint, and a red primer then sheet metal. My plan is to do the whole car glossy red.

No worry's It is just easier to follow your progress.

As long as the old paint is solid not flaking or loose. This has a good starting point. Things just have to be scuff (sanded) for the primer to hang on to.
Are you going solid red or will it have a metallic in it?
Solid is a lot easier for a first timer. But you are a long way from that yet.
Also you are from California and I do not know what products you can get
compared to here.

Darryl
 
I always use paint stripper on the panels. then scuff and shoot with self etching primer. sanding just destroys the integrity of the sheet metal and causes heat. Just put tape around all body openings and sand only the edges when done with the stripper. steel wool makes them look like new panels. and you will see where others sanded through before.

and even though the quarters were rust free on the outside you would not believe what the inside looked like. also found a couple of tools. Raplaced all lowers as you can see on the pics.
 

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As you probably figured out by now there are a number of ways to strip a car each having there plus and minuses. Just figure out what works best for you and the equipment you have available-and keep asking questions b/c it`s the only way you`ll learn!
 
so seeing i decided to scuff and squirt the rest of the body of the car (what is doable).
I wanna use the self etching primer?

Heres what Iv'e got so far.

1) for what is already sanded to bare metal, dent work if necessary, epoxy primer, body filler, sand, then apply 2k primer.
2) for the rest of the car, scuff the paint, then skip the epoxy since there will be no bare metal, and then apply 2k primer.

After car has been primed, sand 1 more time, then apply base coat?

I actually thought about doing the car glossy black, but I keep thinking that it will maybe be to hard to do for a first timer. So if its a little more forgiving, then I would like to do a glossy dark red, and then a flat black hood.

if im on the right track I checked out SPI for there epoxy and 2k, but i didnt know what would be the next step as to achieve my desired goals.
 
Yes your in the right direction ,You have the epoxy going anyway so I would just do
most of it.
You may need to use the 2k several times to be happy with the bodywork.
After blocking (wetsanding) use water and wet area in a long swipe with a good rag and have a light at the other end and you will see what it would look like ,this will show any flaws.Some people use wax and grease remover for this.
The one thing also is even if your hands are clean they leave an oil residue so ware
some of those blue gloves. What will happen in the future is the paint will bubble and
lift in the hot sun in the contaminated areas.


Darryl
 
cool sounds good! i will post with my current progress ASAP! I just bought one of those purple harbor freight guns today, and im gonna phone in an order for there 2.0 nozzle set. then order some epoxy from SPI.

I was gonna get a gallon, and then a gallon activator. Is that to much for 2 doors 2 fenders, trunk and hood?

i don't believe so... but its my first try!

I was gonna buy rage gold body filler. Unless any one else has any input on it?

Also do I need putty? figure the body filler should cover it, but, like I said, my first try.
 
Can't use putty to thick it drys on the outside and soft underneath ,use only for
pinholes and fine stuff.
I used USC feather-rite body filler.


Darryl
 
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